Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys and girls

I've been looking at these brake caliper covers on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Before you guys say I'm being cheap, the goal is to eventually beef up the entire brake system, however due to finanical 'constraints' I am unable to do so at present. But for some reason, the stock calipers are seriously annoying me! (i have the basic brake kit, not the brembos) :wub:

Anyone had experience with these/heard anything? I dont know how hot my brakes get in normal driving (dont intend track useage) so i'm slightly concerned about the heat issue.. any pointers would be appreciated!

-scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328012-brake-caliper-kits/
Share on other sites

hey guys and girls

I've been looking at these brake caliper covers on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Before you guys say I'm being cheap, the goal is to eventually beef up the entire brake system, however due to finanical 'constraints' I am unable to do so at present. But for some reason, the stock calipers are seriously annoying me! (i have the basic brake kit, not the brembos) :wub:

Anyone had experience with these/heard anything? I dont know how hot my brakes get in normal driving (dont intend track useage) so i'm slightly concerned about the heat issue.. any pointers would be appreciated!

-scott

theres a guy i know of doing this to his r33. now im telling you depening on the glue/silicon you use to apply make sure its a goo one. hes red ones fell off in the first week.

IMO dont get them because they DO NOTHING except enhancing your wheels look if you have aftermarket wheels with big gaps between the spokes (but then again it did look fake and cheap when i saw it on his car TBH! its better if you just give your original calipers a spray, but again remember to buy the heat absorbing one.

If going down this path i would also highly recommend :

g35%20gtr.JPG

+

2265.jpg

*ps. both mods are gay, you drive a V35 not a hyundai.

I'm guessing you have the base spec brakes, so if you are wanting to dress them up i would recommend powdercoating them, and maybe adding a sticker.

that said... see the other thread about brakes in here : akebono brakes from the v36 are cheaper and better than the brembos from the V35.

Edited by loz-tuned

I was in Phuket mid last year a spotted these calliper covers on various cars around the place (not good cars).

Best to just turn your head and not look at them until you raise the funds to replace.

ps. I am in the same boat as you, hate the look of the stock callipers but arn't in a position to do anything about it, have been watching importmonster ever since I got my car to bag a bargain.

+1

financially strapped is one thing but downgrading yourself below the level you could ever imagine is another thing...

don't do it. you'd be better off spraying the caliper in heat paint than those nasty cheap looking covers

I hate to admit it but I bought some of the blue endless e-bay covers which looked good, stuck them on with ultra high temp engine gasket/sealant goo and haven’t had any issues in almost a year. Iv had a few people ask me with a rather puzzled look how much my upgrade cost its not untill i tell them there covers and they have a closer look they realise what they are. Now admittedly im not one for rice stickers stupid wings etc but let me give you a real world example of what iv done

Theres nothing wrong with the girl in red but id sooner the girl in back even though shes got a fake rack it still looks good to me

post-9102-1278595685_thumb.jpg

post-9102-1278595692_thumb.jpg

I hate to admit it but I bought some of the blue endless e-bay covers which looked good, stuck them on with ultra high temp engine gasket/sealant goo and haven’t had any issues in almost a year. Iv had a few people ask me with a rather puzzled look how much my upgrade cost its not untill i tell them there covers and they have a closer look they realise what they are. Now admittedly im not one for rice stickers stupid wings etc but let me give you a real world example of what iv done

Theres nothing wrong with the girl in red but id sooner the girl in back even though shes got a fake rack it still looks good to me

you make a good point except the $100 caliper covers are more like a chick having a $2 box of tissues stuffed down her bra then a $5000 fake rack.. sure she looks like she got some titties, til you get the bra off...

shiit the implants cost as much as a BBK youd expect em to be good

Edited by mjay
you make a good point except the $100 caliper covers are more like a chick having a $2 box of tissues stuffed down her bra then a $5000 fake rack.. sure she looks like she got some titties, til you get the bra off...

shiit the implants cost as much as a BBK youd expect em to be good

I hear what your saying

BTW good fake racks cost around 10k+ and more than likley 99.9999999% of the population wont get to see the tissues down the bra. Same goes for the calliper covers and if they do theres no shame in admitting that you weren’t prepared to spend $$$$ on brakes that unless your a track junkie wont do you much better than the stock ones on the road

Before you guys say I'm being cheap, the goal is to eventually beef up the entire brake system, however due to finanical 'constraints' I am unable to do so at present.

How would spending money on crap that performs no useful function, and would be hard to give away afterwards let alone sell, help you:

1. Meet your "beef up the brake system" goal?

2. Resolve your "financial constraints"?

I'm actually quite curious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...