Jump to content
SAU Community

Radar Jammers , Who's Been Busted?

ssshonky

By ssshonky,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the clarification.

Oh and to note I dont take a moral stand one way or the other on these devices, I just wanted to see what goes down once you get caught with one.

I am pretty sure the " parking sensor " excuses wont fly with the cops./

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)
What's the fine ?

Over East I've heard its $1000 on the spot and they confiscate it.

Ouch

I think it would be more of a charge than a fine..

Western Australia, WA - radar detector laws

Currently there is no legislation relating to radar detector use, sale or ownership. Therefore radar detectors are only legal to SELL, OWN and USE in Western Australia. Laser Jammers should be considered illegal to use, however, there is no specific law against ownership and usage would be possibly considered hindering police. This includes parking sensors that are also laser jammers.

Edited by bubba
Burger Ring Explorer

Burger Ring

Posted
Posted
If you get caught with one you will get charged with something under the Telecommunications Act as transmitting on those frequencies is a BIG no-no.

If you install a device with the intention of preventing the police from doing their job, you may come across some over zealous officers who are keen to go down the long path of proving your original intention was to pervert the course of justice. e.g. hinder. If you intended to enjoy greater parking ease, then you have not broken the law. It's very hard for a prosecutor to prove what your intentions were at that time. There is no need to flick switches as the sensor is constantly scanning for obstructions in front of or behind you. If it detects that it is intefering with another system it will shut itself down after 8 seconds to prevent intefering with that device. It's worth noting that many other items use the same sort of laser, e.g. surveying equipment and even (not available in Australia) Nissan's adaptive cruise control.

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok some good points brought up there, but no real life tales of woe yet.

The parking sensor ones are a good point, but what about the old ones that are specifically made for blocking , It would be hard to plead your case then.

Many of them turn themselves off after 4 seconds, so thats another good thing going for them .

Char Experienced

Char

Posted
Posted

+1 on what fine would be. i dont think it would be pretty tho.

i also was thinking if u can turn it off via a switch or something in ur dash, how can they convict you?

(dont say a cop could spot it in the engine bay etc, they dont know the difference between a catch can air breather n a bov)

wht510 Experienced

wht510

Posted
Posted
Just curious to see what has happened to you if you got busted using a laser jammer to overcome speed guns/Traps.

I am fairly sure they are not legal , but just wanted to hear your story as to what happened after you got pulled over/caught.

Depends on what frequency they work on. Some of the laser parking sensors work on the 904nm wavelength which is basically a 'free to air' kind of band, and means you are perfectly within your right to transmit on that frequency. If you just happened to have your 'parking sensor' working on the same frequency and it just so happen to jam their speed gun, it's their bad luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...