Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Oh Ghost Who Walks, we use Optimax, 1.5 bar boost, with ceramic coated piston crowns, combustion chambers, valve heads, exhaust ports and exhaust manifold. I actually exaggerated a little bit, best we have seen so far is 388 rwkw on Optimax, it made 442 with Elf LMS. But I am working on a new camshaft spec with a little more lift, which should pick up the 12 rwkw.

There are no real secrets in getting a 9 to 1 engine to make big horsepower over a useable rpm range. Keep the boost down by running the right size turbo with enough airflow to make the horsepower target, is the most important. The next is very smooth combustion chambers, with oil and water temperatures under control. Correct heat range spark plugs are essential. Back it up with sensible A/F ratios and tune the ignition timing very closely.

Hope that helps

Hi Sydneykid,

"Sensible A/F ratios"

OK - for optimax, i'm assuming that this is in the 11's...

"and tune the ignition timing very closely."

Close to detonation? or do you mean listen closely for detonation?

I also read recently that the onset of detonation is always accompanied with a puff of blac smoke from the exhaust - is this how you would detect detonation?

Cheers for your help,

Matt

Look at that wiseco catalog...

The CR all looks so low.

I reckon they found a whole bunch of 86-88 millimeter bore pistons from whatever cars they have in the US and modified the wrist pin connect so they fit Skylines.

ie. they aren't really Skyline pistons but some blanks that have been milled to fit the RB.

T.

Hi Matt, firstly let me say that what I am using as an example here is a $25K engine. So I use every method I can to protect it.

As for A/F ratios, RB engines seem to make max power around 12.5 to 1, some drop off dramatically in power when you get much richer than that. Others aren't quite so sensitive, I have no idea why this is the case. So if it doesn't affect the power output too much, I target around 12 to 1, and we may have to go down to 11.5 but this is unusual. Basically we just give the engine what it wants, as each one is unique.

Moving onto detecting detonation, the car has an EGT sensor which is a god indicator, as is the fast and wide lambda sensor, the Power FC detonation detection, with the standard RB26 knock sensors, is also a huge help. But by far the best is the human ear, so I have a set of headphones with a mike and a small battery powered amplifier. It is based on the Autospeed design, you can see it here;

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=1353

You can buy similar commercial/workshop equipment, I think SnapOn have one.

So when doing the ignition timing maps, we tune it on the dyno with a very close eye and an ear on the knock detectors (all of them). I also have a Datalogit system with which I review the PFC data from each run (and when we drive it in anger).

Hope that helps some more

PS, this sounds like I am a dyno tuning guru, truth is, our race team dyno guy is way better than me at this stuff. I help out where I can, as this type of thing really needs two sets of eyes and ears.

Hi T0nyGTSt, I don't know for sure, but maybe Wiseco originally make them for RB30's which have 15% smaller combustion chambers. Perhaps that's why the comp ratio is so low when you use them with a DOHC 4 valve head. They also sell lots of stuff for VG30's in the US and they have combusion chamber volumes around the RB30 size. Who knows.

Do you think it is fair to compare a ceramic coated everything 25K engine that gets tuned before every race meet and has all the ecu data logged and reviewed regularly with the average guy on the street wanting an engine that can be driven in anger without problems and only gets dynoed once in a blue moon?

I dont.

Cheers Sydneykid,

Just got one more question, what happens to the EGT's as detonation begins? i'd guess that they decrease due to the 'boundary layer' being destroyed thus causing more heat transfer to the metal in the combustion chamber?

Thanks again,

Matt

PS - you know you're a guru :P

I agree with 8.5, but really I dont think you loose that much by dropping CR to 8.5 from 9. A car may be better to drive with 9, but mine with 8.5 is absolutely fine on the road, dives very well - and detonation is very low even on 40deg day running 1.7 bar on bp ultimate - peace of mind.

If 8.5 is that bad, why did nissan use it for the GTR?

BTW Paul, how many ring lands did you smash?:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...