Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, just got myself some RB74 from DBA and also, some printed instructions on how to properly bed the pads. The RB74s are notoriously famous for squealing but I had no problems with it after following the guide. Thought I share it with you all because I am pretty sure that its applicable to all new pads. :(

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

BEDDING IN INSTRUCTIONS

1. Install disc pads and check fit.

2. Pump brake pedal until pedal is hard.

3. Perform 2 stops from 50Kph to 20Kph with medium pedal effort.

4. Perform 6 stops from 110Kph to 70Kph with high pedal effort.

5. Drive vehicle for 10-15 minutes at 70 to 100Kph without using the brakes to allow them to cool

6. Park vehicle and allow brakes to cool to ambient temperature.

DO NOT STOP VEHICLE WHEN PADS ARE HOT DURING BEDDING.

THIS WILL SEPARATE THE PAD FORM THE BACKING PLATE

Bedding should not be performed until disc rotor has been bedded.

The disc pads will smoke and smell whilst bedding.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

btw, the pads rock!! :( They grip very well and even after a very hard drive with equally hard braking involved, i hardly noticed any brake fade at all.

cheers

glenn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32849-brake-pads-bedding-in-instructions/
Share on other sites

I just had new discs/pads put on my '32 and was wondering (if it's not too nosy) what you guys paid for your pads, coz i had to skimp a bit on the pads after paying for the discs, and they don't seem to be doing as good a job as the ones i took off ! any thoughts would be great..

cheers, phil

My car had RB74s on it when i got it and they work really well, i have white wheels and have just given up on keeping them clean. Anyway, brake dust is the sign of a true street racer, or so ive heard. ;)

I also just got my discs machined for $100 the lot, after i could hardly keep my foot on the brake pedal as it vibrated so much. Work awesome now, almost forgot what it was like to be able to stop quickly.

PS how much were the RB74's?

My RB74's started to squeel a bit after about 1000ks when braking slowly from about 10ks to zero but other than that all good.

They do start to fade after alot of punishment, like midway through a runup the Old Pacific Hwy but even then they feel better than the dodgy stock pads

Greg, you will be able to find more info on RB74s and other pads as well on this thread. Dun worry about the RB74s, they dun chew into the disc but damn dusty.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=32932

  • 2 months later...

I use RB74 purchase from http://www.racebrakes.com.au/. Ever since I have them until now, which is like 10 km's. Its still make a horrible squeakie metal noise when stopping. Could someone advise me what to do or check? By the way I got a mate to install its, but i don't think he bedded !!!

Looking at the RB74 brake pad, i do see alot of chunk of silver + gold metal particles on the pad itself. It's that normal or i just got a faulty one? Compare to my original pad, it's much more finner particles, it's that why it squeal more noise than the original brake pad?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...