Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ladies

Did an oil change on an rb25det, didn't run a flush though it and replaced oil etc. Car was driving fine and then all of a sudden it sounded like a wrx, started ticking and all the rest of it.

Firstly I thought it may have been a lifter that was sticky something getting jammed near it causing it to run on 5 cylinders. So I ran the nulon "lifter free" additive and that didn't change much.

Upon closer inspection I noticed the ticking was coming from the back, on the exhaust side. So I drove the car home and checked out the plugs and this is what I found.

You can see the white residue on the rocker cover and also on the side of where the packs would sit. No. 5 seems to be the issue here, as the pack has melted around the plug and the clip that it goes into has also melted.

img0147yn.jpg

img0148t.th.jpg

img0149uq.jpg

img0152gz.jpg

img0151el.jpg

As I said before the ticking is coming from the exhaust side, could this be a faulty exhaust gasket? If so, how would I check it?

So basically I need second hand ones of everything in the photo, minus the plugs and the cover. If anyones got some that would be great!

If I fix this issue with working parts could there be another issue in cyl 5 / 6 that may have something to do with this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/328585-rb25det-sounding-like-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

exhaust gasket will have nothing even remotely to do with it.

generally i've found oil additives are a waste of time. if theres a serious problem it will never be fixed by tipping a little something into the oil filler.

before you go replacing parts and just shoving them back on you might wana have a little investigation as to how it got so hot in there to melt the coil pack and loom like that. what plugs where you using?? my best guess as to the white crap everywhere could be porcelain off the plugs, as by the look of that plug it has been very very hot and the more i think about it the more i like that theory.

first things first you need to find out how the hell did cylinder number 5 get so freaking hot as to cause all that. thats obviously what caused the running on 5 cylinders and hence the engine sounding different

Edited by jonboy

actually after having thought a little more about it, sounds to me like you could have a broken valve, if its bent out of shape or something that could explain the excessive heat generated through the plug as well as the ticking noise as the valve wont sit properly on its seat.

do a compression test. if compression is way down on number 5 then thats almost certainly your problem.

if so, time for the head to come off

Edited by jonboy

Don't know what burnt your gear but the ticking is quite normally for a cylinder that isn't igniting...just have a quick look at the top of the piston and the spark plug thread. Replace coilpack / spark plug and probably that loom. It looks like something shorted or didn't have a good earth? Never seen something like this before...it's almost like the spark plug came loose and the combustion started breaching the cylinder bore with exhaust/flame? Very queer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...