Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, a little back-story on this one:

R33 RB25DET Series 2 Engine.

Engine ran on 5 cylinders, it was removed.

Car was due to receive a manual conversion.

Sat without and engine for at least 9 months.

Me and a friend put the engine back in (what we assume to be correctly).

We attempted to finish the manual conversion, gearbox bolted up ect. although as of now loom wise we have only looped the inhibitor switch.

Upon turning the key the starter motor goes off and we see smoke coming out the exhaust and top of the cam cover nozzle things but the engine refuses to fire.

Things to note:

The car did run before the engine was removed.

Fuel is entering the lines onto the rail.

Coil packs work, we tested to see if the spark plugs sparked (they did).

Automatic locator (I think of is the name?) has yet to be replaced with a spigot bush, our aim isn't to make the car actually move we just want to see if the engine goes.

The well around the spark plugs and the tips of them were covered in oil, this was the case before we put the engine back in.

I am aware that could be a wide variety of things as there are many variables to what is wrong, any suggestions and tips would be great! Feel free to ask for photos of the engine bay if need be or any questions regarding the car.

Edited by Tyral
Fuel is entering the lines onto the rail.
How do you know? Are you sure you put the fuel lines back on correctly - check by removing the return line from the pressure regulator while priming the pump.
How do you know? Are you sure you put the fuel lines back on correctly - check by removing the return line from the pressure regulator while priming the pump.

A mate pulled the line off the nipple to the injectors and it pissed out with petrol, which I assume means they're indeed getting fuel since they were empty when I started it up? But I'll give that a jam too.

Car cranks, step one. Step two, before going any further, check your compression (as above) to make sure you're not wasting your time with a stuffed engine.

You said the car has spark? Take the plugs out and make sure they're not stuffed/contaminated, plus the oil in the plug tubes over time will eff the coils and make them arc out to the plug tubes, try cleaning them out and the plugs to get a good spark.

You have fuel pressure? Best to double check with a gauge to be safe. Does it try to fire on aerostart? Check for injection pulse using a noid light or low amp LED test light, and use the earth provided in the injector connector to make sure it's switching, not just powered.

If you have all these things the only options left that won't let it "run" are:

Timing (injection, ignition, or belt (which should show up on a compression test))

Computer

Possibly your air flow meter.

Insufficent cranking speed.

The afformentioned are the bare minimum the engine needs to fire.

Hope that helps. :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...