Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was very tempted. Called to clarify overall condition.

Decided it was a waste of money for the street wich is where my focus lies atm.

Good choice :woot:

If a DR30 could ever do 260 should you be looking at the speedo anyway

If a DR30 could ever do 260 should you be looking at the speedo anyway

IF ............................... The DR30 now owned by Cazz was clocked on radar down conrod straight at over 280kph, so why would you think another DR isn't capable of 260?????????

I think my DR in top spec & tune would be capable of something like it, if I could find a track with a straight long enough to get to it.

That aside, it would look really cool eh! Probably a bit more so than the 200kph you wanted to put into yours.

Cheers, D

That aside, it would look really cool eh! Probably a bit more so than the 200kph you wanted to put into yours.

Cheers, D

Would that be the speedo you were going to send me 2 years ago that never eventuated Dennis?

I only wanted a speedo that worked.

As usual you can't read and understand posts properly standing on your soapbox.

Who cares if a DR30 can do those speeds or not , my point was at 260kph should you really be focusing on watching your speedo.

Edited by R34
Would that be the speedo you were going to send me 2 years ago that never eventuated Dennis?

I only wanted a speedo that worked.

As usual you can't read and understand posts properly standing on your soapbox.

Who cares if a DR30 can do those speeds or not , my point was at 260kph should you really be focusing on watching your speedo.

I got the point the first time & yes it was and you were also told 2 years ago that the one I had, had a broken illuminator and you declined the offer.

Are you still looking for one, because you can have the whole cluster out of my DR for shit, I'll put it in the post tonight if you wish?

Maybe you should tell the whole truth and not just selected parts of it that make you feel good & sound like your the guru of understanding?

And when else do you get to look at any gauges but when your hurtling along a straight at whatever plus. In my hay day, it was only the straight that you had time to glance at the gauges to make sure everything was doing it's thing. This is why I have a big 50mm red light on the dash of my DR and when/if it comes on, it's foot off the loud pedal and instant shut down no matter where you are.

And who ever FOCUSES as you put it on a speedo ANYWHERE and at any time???

Cheers, D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...