Jump to content
SAU Community

N1 Oil Pump Gears

boostn32

By boostn32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Yeah you can. I had a heap of these made a while back. They are very expensive to have made but for the cost of a new N1 pump, you get unbreakable gears.

It's not something that's i'd do all over again but I put one in every new engine I build. Finding wire cutters and gear profilers is frickin time consuming!!!

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^ correction - Most gears that is due to rev limiter abuse by the owner, which is a sure fire way to kill gears and ANY pump can be broken like that - even the Tomei.

Doesnt matter what crank you have in that scenario :P

drpheel Enthusiast

drpheel

Posted
Posted
^ correction - Most gears that is due to rev limiter abuse by the owner, which is a sure fire way to kill gears and ANY pump can be broken like that - even the Tomei.

Doesnt matter what crank you have in that scenario :D

I have to agree with R31Nismoid... But any limiter abuse can lead to that and many more problemes on any car. That can be taken out of the equation with some reasonable driving/shifting. From my experience and knowledge a nice N1 is good enough ! Just make sure you address the crank collar probleme if its a early model engine. As for billet gears , I know Nitto makes a oil pump for the RB but I have no idea on the performance/quality of this product.

http://www.nitto.com.au/products/oilpump-R...?vehicle=nissan

just my 2 cents :P

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)
^ correction - Most gears that is due to rev limiter abuse by the owner, which is a sure fire way to kill gears and ANY pump can be broken like that - even the Tomei.

Doesnt matter what crank you have in that scenario :(

I really think it is down to the poor tolerance between the drive and the gears, then when you start applying on/off torque such as bouncing the limiter or heaps of pedalling, they break.

Good tolerance, good balancing and a decent harmonic balancer. (And some gears that aren't made of a sintered material).

Edited by bubba
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
^ correction - Most gears that is due to rev limiter abuse by the owner, which is a sure fire way to kill gears and ANY pump can be broken like that - even the Tomei.

Doesnt matter what crank you have in that scenario :)

I thought so too until I supplied 2 (two) N1 pumps to customers (from Nissan), both cars fitted with crank collars and both cracked the gear. One in less than 5000 kms, and the other in about 12,000kms.

Neither car saw over 7000rpm and had aftermarket harmonic balancers. That was good enough for me to lose faith in them completely

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...