Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking To Buy This R34 Any Opinions?

FiniX

By FiniX,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

llama_au Grand Master

llama_au

Posted
Posted

No doubt. Most cars in Japan are wound back before making it to auction, that's a fact. I was quite content buying an R34 with 'higher than average Japanese km's' because the km's were quite obviously genuine given the car's condition.

KamikazeNinja34 Veteran

KamikazeNinja34

Posted
Posted
Put them both next to Kris' car and you'll be on your way to a packet of Skittles :)

All you'd need after that is Al's and a midnight purple...

lol Adam u already know we already have a green skittle.

Funny how that thing is almost the spitting image of CR34M too. Bit lighter color and wheels aren't as good. Bodykit isnt as wide either by the look. But sure looks very similar at first glance to me :)

surprised you didn't pick up on it Jizzy boi. U never usually miss an opportunity to drop a name.

Charles89 Grand Master

Charles89

Posted
Posted
I smell something fishy about this car. If it looks too good to be true it usually is.

What if it doesn't even look that good to start of with? :D

Imagine driving that thing down Princess Highway on a Friday night.... You'll have a pack of TMU following you lol

  • 2 weeks later...
Daz305 Rising Star

Daz305

Posted
Posted

id like to know wats the story with this car... at $17,000 it didnt even get a single bid but the week before it finished for $18,600 and was obviosly never sold... and originaly it was on on ebay for $32,000 buy it now..

any1 know what was wrong with it? (obviosuly the km's may be wrong) or is it just a bit to out there for most people haha

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted
hey guys im looking to buy this Nissan Skyline R34 on ebay.. any opinions? i just bid for it.. about 2 hours to go hopefully i get it. but what should the max i should go for incase i get outbid? and ideas?

Bright green and 22" rims...

Beirut's finest :):P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...