Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

At the moment im trying to piece everything together to get my car back on the road

I just have a few questions regarding a few things i need to do or want to do

First being is it possible for me to put a series 2 grill on a series 1 set of lights?

Second is how the hell do you get the fender/guard off when the last 2 screws situated on the bottom of the car arent moving?

i have got the other screws out but the last two wont budge. Ive tried WD-40, screwing it out, hammering it out, drilling though it (wouldnt go too deep). I need to keep the original holes aswell to put the new fender/guard on. Has anyone experience the same problem? My guess is it wont move because it has been on there since 1993 and hasnt moved one bit since then. Also the factor of the screws being pushed in isn't possible because the accident didn't damage the bottom of the guard at all.

What you guys think?

Lastly how the hell do you take the headlights out when the bolts are situated in the most hard to reach places? I have tried ratchet set etc. Please let me know if you have had previous experience.

:D cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329288-general-questions/
Share on other sites

Lastly how the hell do you take the headlights out when the bolts are situated in the most hard to reach places? I have tried ratchet set etc. Please let me know if you have had previous experience.

:D cheers guys

u dont need a ratchet set to get them out just a phillips head, u need to unscrew it from underneath the car leaving the bracket still connected to the bottom of the light (2 screws each bracket)

i have done it a few times

what area u at, if close i might be able to drop in after work n show u tomoz

thought so

someone at a particular japanese parts store had told me that there the same and when i put the bonnet on my series 1 guard it had a normal size gap. But after putting the series 2 guard on the other side the gap was very minimal.

cheers anyways guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...