Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

Well at the SAU NSW Wakefield Park track day on Saturday I was asked by multiple entrants and club members about a rumour that is circulating about Federal now having a proper R-Spec semi-slick tyre.

So I guess I should let the cat out of the bag and see how much interest there is on these new tyres...

Images attached.

It's called the Corsa FZ-201 and it is now available (although some minor changes may still be made as it is tested on more vehicle types).

Technical info:

- DOT approved low void ratio 'R-Spec' grooved race tyre.

- Inner casing is similar to the 595RS-R with steel reinforced sidewall.

- Treadwear rating is equivalent to 60 (medium/hard 'tarmac rally compound').

Test reports:

Without giving away too much info on the testing of this tyre, the reports and results that we have seen when compared to other leading brands have been very positive.

This tyre has been used in the rally of Tasmania (tarmac rally) by Steve Glenney on his WRX and it proved extremely effective with Steve winning the event outright, it has also been used on larger touring cars such as Commodores for events in the IRS (Independant Race Series) and proved extremely effective (lapping up to 2 seconds quicker than another very popular leading brand).

It has been tested against the 595RS-R at Queensland's Morgan Park and although it has a slightly longer warm up time, once up to temp was consistently quicker by up to 3-5 seconds.

NOTE:

The FZ-201 is a Tarmac Rally/Track semi-slick tyre with a medium/hard compound meaning that it is designed for extended race use (long stages or multiple laps) as it works best at higher temps and has a slightly longer warm up time than softer compound R-spec tyres, it is not a sprint or short course tyre (although it will still provide good grip for this kind of racing).

Federal are currently working on producing the FZ-202 which will be a softer sprint/time attack tyre (more info on that as it becomes available).

Currently the size range and stock availability is very limited (as this tyre is so new) and the pricing is very reasonable compared to other brands in it's class:

- 195/50R15 - RRP $300

- 235/45R17 - RRP $440

- 255/40R17 - RRP $460

Please PM me if you need any further info on where and how to get these tyres as they are not available from all Federal authorised retailers - If I don't get back to you straight away please be patient, I will get back to you. :down:

P.S. - I am not selling these tyres, the purpose of this thread is for information only.

post-17958-1279502401_thumb.jpg

post-17958-1279502410_thumb.jpg

post-17958-1279502414_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/329452-the-rumours-are-true/
Share on other sites

It has been tested against the 595RS-R at Queensland's Lakeside raceway and although it has a slightly longer warm up time, once up to temp was lapping consistently quicker by up to 3-5 seconds.

who did this?

were the FZ201 time done with the same car/driver as the RS-R's?

and was it 3 seconds or 5 seconds??? 2 seconds is a very significant variation.

and what times were they running?

who did this?

were the FZ201 time done with the same car/driver as the RS-R's?

and was it 3 seconds or 5 seconds??? 2 seconds is a very significant variation.

and what times were they running?

This testing was done by an independant driver training company called 'Risk Assesment' and it was actually at Morgan Park not Lakeside (the IRS round referred to was at Lakeside) 3 almost identical vehicles and 4 different drivers - results were averaged out.

The FZ-201 proved to be about 1 second per km quicker than the 595RS-R and after each session was completed they were between 3 and 5 seconds quicker (depending on the pressure used, temperature etc).

First post amended. :down:

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even with no BOV you will have issues unless the MAF is a hot film type like the R35 which has some design features to deal with reversion. Hot wire MAFs are very sensitive.
    • So i just change the (whatever is inside ma original MAF and slide the R34 MAF (it is gonna fit right in? ) and somewhere on the hot side a BoV...i presume that would be vented to the atmo? I just "trying" to understand...maybe my mechanic would know this   I would not mind(even prefer) to run stock BoV cuz it is way more than fine but i do not have that and only pipeing what is left is oem J pipe ... I will be running Blitz fmic(to fit oem one side style) and i gonna need custom pipes cuz i do not have rest of those pipes and hoses... But i am want standalone ECU. Only choice i have atm is Nistune...but that is not gonna cut it right?I dont know what Nistune can and cant do... I know you guys know Link and Haltech...but whatabout ECUmaster? I know guys in here run those but i literally do not know about that and do not know differences... Just know to take whatever "my" tuner can work on.  
    • Is that the blue one rpm?  
    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
×
×
  • Create New...