RWD GTR: Why cant we just trick the ECU's?

[GTR R35]

From what I have read, the GTR's transfer of power to the front wheels are controlled by the cars computers. I believe it looks at G forces, Rear wheel slip, throttle position, etc all to determin within 1/100th of a second if and how much power to send to the front wheels. I wonder why we need to buy expensive jap gear to allow the car to run whatever torque split you need(0/100-50/50. I remember early EVO lancers had a thumb wheel to allow you to set the split, but it appears with the GTR this is not possible without special hydrolic devices.

Can anyone please tell me why this is so ?

Why can you not get some little electronic gizmo that will allow some ajustment or blocking of the front wheel torque.

And for the people that ask....I want to be able to drift easier.

Ta

Mal

[nicknick]

why dont you just take out the 4wd fuse, its not that hard...

[GTR R35]

The car is a 260RS Stagea 1999 model. This runs the same drivetrain and engine (except its a 5 speed) as the R34 GTR V-Spec (so I am told).

I have read here and other places that you can only make these RWD by removing the drive shafts. I do not want to go through all removal of driveshafts etc just to get RWD.

I believe that the HKS ECT may be the only solution.......

I just think there should be a better way to trick the ECU.

Ta

Mal

[paulr33]

The fuse is one way, not sure if its safe/relibable = search and see what you can find

There was a post about it before. HKS make a torque splitter device thingy, not sure of its name, but i believe it does the functionality you're after. Drag controller it might be? It basically turns off attessa so all torque's goes to the rears

[GTRman1992]

Have you tried the ignition flick trick. Where you flick the ignition off and on quickly while rolling and the "Skyline" goes into rear wheel drive mode untill you stop. Then it reverts back to AWD. The warning light should come on the dash.

The beauty of the Skyline transmission is that it is NOT locked to a fixed split like the cheaper cars you mentioned. Thats what makes it so quick.

[paulr33]

Review of the HKS ETC: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t2035.html

I cant see to find anything on the HKS site however

[paulr33]

The HKS ETC aka Electronic Torque Controller sometimes referred to as the "Drag Controller" is what you're looking for, should do the job sweet in your stagea.

[nicknick]

fuse is the best way for drifting

[Duncan]

fuse, or ignition off tricks are apparently not safe in 33 and later cars, there is some issue with the clutch pack burning out.

Autospeed did a series of articles on how modifying the atessa controller.

[Guest RedLineGTR]

With r32s u can take the fuse out for r33's u can have to take the front shaft out..for r34's...mmm no idea...but a HKS ETC would be the best bet.

[paulr33]

yep i think retail is around $1100 for the controller and its required bits

[GTR R35]

I have found another product, but cannot find much info on it.

Anyone ever heard of the Dancer ATTESA controller ?

www.grid.co.jp/prod/tu/prod21.htm

This may be an alternative to the HKS ETC.

Ta

Mal

[sebaz]

If your car does indeed replicate the Vspec setup you CAN'T just "pull the fuse" to the 4wd ecu as some have said.

The Vspec has an active rear diff, different from a standard GTR. For this reason simply pulling the fuse doesn't work.

It'll work for a short period one or two quick dyno runs.. But even that is not advisable. You'll cook your diff.

To do it properly you need to bleed off the centre diff. This will result in the Active LSD light and 4wd drive light coming on the instrument cluster. The 4wd computer is still on and detects the fault (hence the warning lights) and defaults to rear wheel drive mode.

When finished you can allow fuild back into the centre diff and all is well.

I've also heard of people with grounding problems having the 4wd "drop out" when load on the electrical system. When put on the NISSAN R32 "Consult" system check, this fault was represented as a fault with the throttle position switch but its not its grounding problem.

You could try that as a work around. If you could trick the ecu into dropping of the 4wd all you have to do is turn the car off and then retart and you'd back to normal.

Once in this mode you can drive around for hours doing whatever without any damage to your centre or rear diff or the ecu.

Hope that helps a bit,

Sebaz

[paulr33]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30799

Misc.

HKS ETC

HKS electronic torque controller, comes complete with all wiring. Has the loom to suit R32, can supply R33 loom.

$700