Jump to content
SAU Community

RWD GTR: Why cant we just trick the ECU's?

GTR R35
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR R35 Proficient

GTR R35

Posted
Posted

From what I have read, the GTR's transfer of power to the front wheels are controlled by the cars computers. I believe it looks at G forces, Rear wheel slip, throttle position, etc all to determin within 1/100th of a second if and how much power to send to the front wheels. I wonder why we need to buy expensive jap gear to allow the car to run whatever torque split you need(0/100-50/50. I remember early EVO lancers had a thumb wheel to allow you to set the split, but it appears with the GTR this is not possible without special hydrolic devices.

Can anyone please tell me why this is so ?

Why can you not get some little electronic gizmo that will allow some ajustment or blocking of the front wheel torque.

And for the people that ask....I want to be able to drift easier.

Ta

Mal

GTR R35 Proficient

GTR R35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The car is a 260RS Stagea 1999 model. This runs the same drivetrain and engine (except its a 5 speed) as the R34 GTR V-Spec (so I am told).

I have read here and other places that you can only make these RWD by removing the drive shafts. I do not want to go through all removal of driveshafts etc just to get RWD.

I believe that the HKS ECT may be the only solution.......

I just think there should be a better way to trick the ECU.

Ta

Mal

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

The fuse is one way, not sure if its safe/relibable = search and see what you can find

There was a post about it before. HKS make a torque splitter device thingy, not sure of its name, but i believe it does the functionality you're after. Drag controller it might be? It basically turns off attessa so all torque's goes to the rears

GTRman1992 Proficient

GTRman1992

Posted
Posted

Have you tried the ignition flick trick. Where you flick the ignition off and on quickly while rolling and the "Skyline" goes into rear wheel drive mode untill you stop. Then it reverts back to AWD. The warning light should come on the dash.

The beauty of the Skyline transmission is that it is NOT locked to a fixed split like the cheaper cars you mentioned. Thats what makes it so quick.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

fuse, or ignition off tricks are apparently not safe in 33 and later cars, there is some issue with the clutch pack burning out.

Autospeed did a series of articles on how modifying the atessa controller.

GTR R35 Proficient

GTR R35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have found another product, but cannot find much info on it.

Anyone ever heard of the Dancer ATTESA controller ?

www.grid.co.jp/prod/tu/prod21.htm

This may be an alternative to the HKS ETC.

Ta

Mal

sebaz Collaborator

sebaz

Posted
Posted

If your car does indeed replicate the Vspec setup you CAN'T just "pull the fuse" to the 4wd ecu as some have said.

The Vspec has an active rear diff, different from a standard GTR. For this reason simply pulling the fuse doesn't work.

It'll work for a short period one or two quick dyno runs.. But even that is not advisable. You'll cook your diff.

To do it properly you need to bleed off the centre diff. This will result in the Active LSD light and 4wd drive light coming on the instrument cluster. The 4wd computer is still on and detects the fault (hence the warning lights) and defaults to rear wheel drive mode.

When finished you can allow fuild back into the centre diff and all is well.

I've also heard of people with grounding problems having the 4wd "drop out" when load on the electrical system. When put on the NISSAN R32 "Consult" system check, this fault was represented as a fault with the throttle position switch but its not its grounding problem.

You could try that as a work around. If you could trick the ecu into dropping of the 4wd all you have to do is turn the car off and then retart and you'd back to normal.

Once in this mode you can drive around for hours doing whatever without any damage to your centre or rear diff or the ecu.

Hope that helps a bit,

Sebaz

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30799

Misc.

HKS ETC

HKS electronic torque controller, comes complete with all wiring. Has the loom to suit R32, can supply R33 loom.

$700

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Noob

      By PranK · Posted

      Welcome to !
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • BuiltNotBought
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
×
×
  • Create New...