Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From what I have read, the GTR's transfer of power to the front wheels are controlled by the cars computers. I believe it looks at G forces, Rear wheel slip, throttle position, etc all to determin within 1/100th of a second if and how much power to send to the front wheels. I wonder why we need to buy expensive jap gear to allow the car to run whatever torque split you need(0/100-50/50. I remember early EVO lancers had a thumb wheel to allow you to set the split, but it appears with the GTR this is not possible without special hydrolic devices.

Can anyone please tell me why this is so ?

Why can you not get some little electronic gizmo that will allow some ajustment or blocking of the front wheel torque.

And for the people that ask....I want to be able to drift easier.

Ta

Mal

The car is a 260RS Stagea 1999 model. This runs the same drivetrain and engine (except its a 5 speed) as the R34 GTR V-Spec (so I am told).

I have read here and other places that you can only make these RWD by removing the drive shafts. I do not want to go through all removal of driveshafts etc just to get RWD.

I believe that the HKS ECT may be the only solution.......

I just think there should be a better way to trick the ECU.

Ta

Mal

The fuse is one way, not sure if its safe/relibable = search and see what you can find

There was a post about it before. HKS make a torque splitter device thingy, not sure of its name, but i believe it does the functionality you're after. Drag controller it might be? It basically turns off attessa so all torque's goes to the rears

Have you tried the ignition flick trick. Where you flick the ignition off and on quickly while rolling and the "Skyline" goes into rear wheel drive mode untill you stop. Then it reverts back to AWD. The warning light should come on the dash.

The beauty of the Skyline transmission is that it is NOT locked to a fixed split like the cheaper cars you mentioned. Thats what makes it so quick.

fuse, or ignition off tricks are apparently not safe in 33 and later cars, there is some issue with the clutch pack burning out.

Autospeed did a series of articles on how modifying the atessa controller.

I have found another product, but cannot find much info on it.

Anyone ever heard of the Dancer ATTESA controller ?

www.grid.co.jp/prod/tu/prod21.htm

This may be an alternative to the HKS ETC.

Ta

Mal

If your car does indeed replicate the Vspec setup you CAN'T just "pull the fuse" to the 4wd ecu as some have said.

The Vspec has an active rear diff, different from a standard GTR. For this reason simply pulling the fuse doesn't work.

It'll work for a short period one or two quick dyno runs.. But even that is not advisable. You'll cook your diff.

To do it properly you need to bleed off the centre diff. This will result in the Active LSD light and 4wd drive light coming on the instrument cluster. The 4wd computer is still on and detects the fault (hence the warning lights) and defaults to rear wheel drive mode.

When finished you can allow fuild back into the centre diff and all is well.

I've also heard of people with grounding problems having the 4wd "drop out" when load on the electrical system. When put on the NISSAN R32 "Consult" system check, this fault was represented as a fault with the throttle position switch but its not its grounding problem.

You could try that as a work around. If you could trick the ecu into dropping of the 4wd all you have to do is turn the car off and then retart and you'd back to normal.

Once in this mode you can drive around for hours doing whatever without any damage to your centre or rear diff or the ecu.

Hope that helps a bit,

Sebaz

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30799

Misc.

HKS ETC

HKS electronic torque controller, comes complete with all wiring. Has the loom to suit R32, can supply R33 loom.

$700

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...