Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there are some metal covers inside, if you take them out you get a bit more light out of them

they are fogs so it'll always be a wide spread

i was thinking about getting some driving lights for below them or maybe next to the number plate tho

i was thinking about getting some driving lights for below them or maybe next to the number plate tho

i actually had the lights on each side of the number plate which im sure are a dayz option with the kit...they were pretty

cool but got sacrificed for the intercooler...

i actually had the lights on each side of the number plate which im sure are a dayz option with the kit...they were pretty

cool but got sacrificed for the intercooler...

Yeah I have those plus the ones in the front bar, ones front bar are yellow, bottom ones white

i heated of my outer lenses with a hair dryer then took out the two inner lenses, one clear the other orange to get the full

light spread. now the normal halogen light colour.

same, then i got some "5000k" halogen bulbs

basically normal bulbs with a blue coating

not as blue as the xenons, but a lot whiter than the stock bulbs

seen these in the shops?

save drilling into anything.

http://www.aunger.com.au/new-product-dlights.html

Interesting, thanks guys :D

I'm also going to look at fitting some big spotties as off the clock down country roads at night.. I want to be able to see more :)

post-38314-1280497920_thumb.jpg

post-38314-1280497967_thumb.jpg

oh yeah regarding on bubba's comment on replacing driving lights, no.

found the one's in the grille quite good.

in saying that got a pair of nice 100w spotties out in the garage been boxed away for years new unused (gift).

similar size and shape to the cibie's on the dayz s2.

been eyeing of that aunger thing and umming/arrrring if i really need to get it and fit them.

same, then i got some "5000k" halogen bulbs

basically normal bulbs with a blue coating

not as blue as the xenons, but a lot whiter than the stock bulbs

Pipster are you talking about the yellow fogs in in the front bar with your indicators? I would like to do this and make them white if they are the ones you guys are referring too the yellow some how makes the car look more dated to me

4got to say, where some leather garden/rigger gloves, glass gets very hot. :D

i heated of my outer lenses with a hair dryer then took out the two inner lenses, one clear the other orange to get the full

light spread. now the normal halogen light colour.

Pipster are you talking about the yellow fogs in in the front bar with your indicators? I would like to do this and make them white if they are the ones you guys are referring too the yellow some how makes the car look more dated to me

sure am

put them in the oven with the temp on low ~80*c then slowly pull the lens off

once open, there is a yellow tinted glass in front of the bulb that just unscrews and comes off

I threw my Fogs in the Oven after Preheating to 90c for 10min, the lens came off VERY easy with the help of a flat blade screwdivers.

I removed the Yellow Glass Filter + the Amber Filter for the indicator.

Recently installed 50 Watt 6000k HIDs in the Fog lights, Looks A MILLING DOLLARS!!!

I cant stress how much better it looks. IMO... :)

Just did this to a mates Stagea aswell.

That I have seen,read and heard, we're the only 2x on the coast with HIDs in the Fogs :P

Edited by JDM_Spirit

that's my next plan :).

been keeping an eye out on the auctions for genuine ballasts to put in.

I threw my Fogs in the Oven after Preheating to 90c for 10min, the lens came off VERY easy with the help of a flat blade screwdivers.

I removed the Yellow Glass Filter + the Amber Filter for the indicator.

Recently installed 50 Watt 6000k HIDs in the Fog lights, Looks A MILLING DOLLARS!!!

I cant stress how much better it looks. IMO... :P

Just did this to a mates Stagea aswell.

That I have seen,read and heard, we're the only 2x on the coast with HIDs in the Fogs :(

I threw my Fogs in the Oven after Preheating to 90c for 10min, the lens came off VERY easy with the help of a flat blade screwdivers.

I removed the Yellow Glass Filter + the Amber Filter for the indicator.

Recently installed 50 Watt 6000k HIDs in the Fog lights, Looks A MILLING DOLLARS!!!

I cant stress how much better it looks. IMO... :)

Just did this to a mates Stagea aswell.

That I have seen,read and heard, we're the only 2x on the coast with HIDs in the Fogs :P

which hid kid did you use?

its pretty much the only way to get the bulbs the same colour as the xenons

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...