Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks nice,

Impul body kit and an aftermarket FMIC. (maybe a Impul ECU in there also)

some sort of aftermarket suspension. Looks like the the CV boot seals are a starting to come off.

The M35 is a much more refined car than the C34 and lots more torque. A bit more of a cruiser.

You should enjoy.

There is lots of information on this forum about trouble shooting problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331077-new-from-uk/#findComment-5376654
Share on other sites

VIN number printed on your windscreen (from the first photo), when entered into FAST tells us your car was manufactured June 2002, Exterior Colour code: KYO and interior is G (grey). Motor is VQ25DET, 4WD, 5 speed auto, Model type is 250TRSFV

Model: TLGNRSNM35UDA-A--

I recently upgraded from a '97 n/a Stagea 25X to a 2006 RX250 FOUR n/a and haven't been disappointed in any way. It's a far more modern and refined car. Quite a bit higher driving position, better economy and handling. A very worthy successor to the old model, although looks don't appeal to everyone. I always thought the old Stagea was one of the best looking wagons on the road.

Edited by Spong
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331077-new-from-uk/#findComment-5376678
Share on other sites

VIN number printed on your windscreen (from the first photo), when entered into FAST tells us your car was manufactured June 2002, Exterior Colour code: KYO and interior is G (grey). Motor is VQ25DET, 4WD, 5 speed auto, Model type is 250TRSFV

Model: TLGNRSNM35UDA-A--

I recently upgraded from a '97 n/a Stagea 25X to a 2006 RX250 FOUR n/a and haven't been disappointed in any way. It's a far more modern and refined car. Quite a bit higher driving position, better economy and handling. A very worthy successor to the old model, although looks don't appeal to everyone. I always thought the old Stagea was one of the best looking wagons on the road.

can't wait got the back spoiler as wellas the eye lids and some nice 20's to go on will 20's fit ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331077-new-from-uk/#findComment-5377002
Share on other sites

can't wait got the back spoiler as wellas the eye lids and some nice 20's to go on will 20's fit ok

With nice slim profile tyres, 20's may be ok but I would look for someone with 20's and see what they have to say about it.

Lots of M35's getting around with 19's but that's not to say 20's wouldn't be possible. I know the best offset is +38.

Remember if you have an all wheel drive (atessa) vehicle, keep the wheels and tyres the same all round (or atleast ensure your rolling diameter is as close as possible) or the atessa will have something to say about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331077-new-from-uk/#findComment-5377060
Share on other sites

very nice! and congrats on being the first in the UK

+1 on getting that CV boot replaced correctly. that said, if its beyond fixing, replacement shafts are available on the yahoo auctions.

nice front mount hidden in there too :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331077-new-from-uk/#findComment-5377226
Share on other sites

very nice! and congrats on being the first in the UK

+1 on getting that CV boot replaced correctly. that said, if its beyond fixing, replacement shafts are available on the yahoo auctions.

nice front mount hidden in there too :)

wot do they do to a full tank hope its better then my old stag

Edited by enza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331077-new-from-uk/#findComment-5378613
Share on other sites

just got me nm35 one of the frist in england , have a old stagea as well , how do the mn35 run never seen one or been in one ,how do they compare to the old one ?

Congrats.....nice car....if you into Mods you have a big learning curve......or a lot of reading!

First thing to look at doing is the Dump pipe!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331077-new-from-uk/#findComment-5378806
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...