Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i vote get a experienced alarm fitter to do the job for u. from the sound of ur post ur just going to be wasting ur time trying to fit it.

and nobody here will be able to help u to set it up because of the risk a thief well see.

but any way a testlight is a wast of money and time. all it shows is if there is power or not. what u need is a good multi-meter +$15 and install instructions and wiring diagrams i dont think u will find any.

but i still stand by my first statement. get a experienced alarm fitter.

test light + yellow harness = fun :laugh:

multimeter my friend OR get your wallet out and pay someone.

I worked in a high end shop in USA and one of the other seasoned installer's torched a ECU for a 959 Porsche with 0 miles on it, funny enough it controlled everything and cost a boat load to replace.all from the use of a 2 buck "test light" to try to interface with a after market alarm...... lets say he didn't get a paycheck for a month to cover it.

Edited by sapphiregraphics

lol, nuthing wrong with a $10 test light if you know what your doing and how to use it without causing damage, but if he doesnt even know how to use a testlight dont think he should be installing an alarm. like everyone else suggested, for out some cash get a pro to fit it or someone like me who use to fit them and knows what i am doing.

two words troy - FLUKE 78. (or a DSO depending on what I am chasing.)

wanna see my fluke.. 87 if you want a laugh its in pieces on my table,,,,the LCD plugs and IC driver got salt water corrosion from a downpour of rain a few drops must have entered the case thru the LCD area. when my R31 broke down in the dark I had to sort the lights out in the rain, some previous owner had hacked the wires behind the battery for some fog lights and used 3 different pieces of wires to extend the circuit off the relays. dickhead..lol

but good old Fluke, a little toothbrush and baking soda scrub off and circuit board cleaner, works good again, now to fix the light on it...grrrrr

I've had this thing since it came out, dropped a million times, nothing beats a FLUKE, but on my current budget I bought a jaycar top of the line one to measure High current thru a clamp rather then shunt 300amps

Fluke 87 cost a boat load in OZ, and someone stole my 78 off the workbench when I worked in Denver

Fluke is backup now. till light is fixed.

Nothing wrong with some cheaper ones, some even test transistors and diodes by simple plug in. great for circuit level board work. I have a few cheapos for that very thing, lol

tools are like porn,,,, you can never have enough..lol kidding on the porn..lol

Edited by sapphiregraphics
lol, nuthing wrong with a $10 test light if you know what your doing and how to use it without causing damage, but if he doesnt even know how to use a testlight dont think he should be installing an alarm. like everyone else suggested, for out some cash get a pro to fit it or someone like me who use to fit them and knows what i am doing.

a incandescent Test light is fatal to a newer car, LED bulb ones not so bad but still draw too much current for some circuits. like a airbag /ECU ???

and wont tell you if its 5 volts or 13volts on the wire ? both light up the dumb test light

and I don't know how many times a rookie installer uses a dash/dimmer light wire for grounds, cause it shows as a ground on most cars, until you flick on the lights, then positive voltage hits the radio ground. and floats the ground on the radio thru the antenna jack...not a good thing

lol, nuthing wrong with a $10 test light if you know what your doing and how to use it without causing damage, but if he doesnt even know how to use a testlight dont think he should be installing an alarm. like everyone else suggested, for out some cash get a pro to fit it or someone like me who use to fit them and knows what i am doing.

i was actually referring to a $10 multimeter sorry for the confusion every one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...