Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Little bit stuck on this one. for the record its a R32 skyline

had a flat battery and i got a mate to put jumpers on the battery with a fully charged one and terminals got crossed up the wrong way.. a relay went nuts and popped 3 fuses and the ECU.

put a good ecu in there and replaced all fused and went to start it and it blew another fuse straight away. Its the fuel pump fuse under the dash. some where in the fuel pump circuit it has a dead short. have unplugged the pump and it still blows. unplugging the relay stops the fuel blowing.

with the ECu disconnected and all efi relays unplugged. it still does if i manually earth out the fuel pump relay it so i have eliminated the engine loom side of things.

i'm a little stuck on it.. the fuel pump relay has two sets of wires.. theres the power wire that comes from the fuse itself.. thats blue/black and doesnt appear to have condiduity to the chassis (if it did it would blow the fuse all the time not when the relay is activated) the black/yellow wire that gets powered by the relay to provide 12V to the fuel pump DOES however have a dead short to the chassis. now im stuffed if i can find out where the wire goes to the front of the car as it branches off in the boot to the fuel pump and to the front.

any help would be great!

Edited by Simon-R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332087-wiring-fault/
Share on other sites

Clearly the dead short is between the relay and the fuel pump connector (or maybe a broken relay - But highly unlikely). Pain in the arse to find that short, better off running a new wire from the relay to the fuel pump. Don't forget to cut the old wiring BOTH sides, otherwise you will still get the shorts. IF you decide to pull power from another wire for what ever reason, MAKE SURE you fuse it :verymad:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332087-wiring-fault/#findComment-5388279
Share on other sites

if you disconnect the wire where it runs into the relay and also from the pump (like you have) then switch it on, does the fuse blow? if not then the short is in the wire from the relay to the pump. im pretty sure you've worked out thats the issue anyway. i suspect your gonna have to pretty well replace that wire entirely.

if you get a wire hot enough like you probably did, you can melt the insulation off it pretty much all the way along it without too much effort. therefore it can have a million shorts all along its length.

im not an expert on the basic layout of an r32 but i'd asume that under the drivers kick panel there will be a large plug that the loom to the rear of the car connects to. if so disconnect it and see if the pumps wire has shorts there. at least it will determine if the short is before or after the plug. if its after (closer to the plump) it will be far less of a pain in the arse to replace.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332087-wiring-fault/#findComment-5388478
Share on other sites

If you are trying to chase a wire that is shorted to the chassis, you will find a hell of a lot of them. they are called grounds.

Run a new wire from relay to pump neatly under the carpet etc. and get back to driving.

im not not sure if your being serious here or not.. but a ground wire or earth wire is a lot different to a power wire that it shorted out. a dead short is what i have and am trying to find.

but yes.. running a new wire looks to be the fastest way out of this problem

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332087-wiring-fault/#findComment-5389734
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...