Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Team!

Ok, Ive been reading around, but cant seem to find a deffinent answer...

Im looking at finally getting some good sized wheels. But to get them to fit, I need to ditch the wide track rear cradle so the Front + Rear are the same.

I did read that I shall require a R33/34(?) GTR Rear Cradle.

But I dont know what else?

I currently have;

-Tien Coilovers(To suit Stagea)

-Adjustable Tow Arms

-Adjustable Camber Arms

-Whiteline Swaybar (R34 GTR)

-R34 GTT Calipers + Rotors

So what I know is I should be able to re-use; on a 33GTR Cradle(Please Confirm?)

-Stagea Diff

-ALL Arms

-Swaybar

-Brakes

-Coilovers

I think the only problem is the Drive Shafts been shorter and the GTR shafts have a different Bolt Pattern?? :)

I know a few people have done this. If someone could point me in the right dirrection Id really apprieciate it :)

Thankyou in advance :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332186-s2-auto-cradle-swap-33gtr/
Share on other sites

wouldn't a GTR cradle give you wider track?

That Ive heard...

"Nissan used a R33 GTR cradles in all the Manual Stagea's along with GTR Diff + Shafts."

Its just what Nissan chose to do... :)

Also, factory Manual Stagea's have the same Track Front+Rear (dont quote me, only what I heard awhile ago)

Early morning hour reading hurts... :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...l=stagea+cradle

darrinspencer's thread :)

OK... Possible options;

Quotes from...........

M I K E

"...s14/15 rack will fit and is roughly 50mm narrower than the auto stagea cradle and is pretty much identicle width to a factory manual stagea cradle. you have to use an s14 turbo subframe though - no hicas either :) ..."

"...you could run an s14/15 frame and keep your current struts?.."

RED513

"...Auto stagea shafts-5x1, long

skyline shafts-5x1, std length.."

"...I'd source a R33 Gtst cradle and shafts, same hubs, same struts, same diff & cheap cheap.

Check rear toe arms and Hicas lock bar or go S14/15 cradle but even they flex! (Extra bar welded between toe arms in MIKE's pic above)

Rather then try source New rear struts + complete autech rear or Gtr rear then change diff ratios..."

unique1

"...The arms on rs4 and 260rs are the same lengths..."

"...Also dont forget you will need fork end coilovers on the rear..."

msports180

"...Front track on the autech is 20mm wider to..."

Just to clear any confusion up. My ONLY Goal is to Reduce the Rear Track. NOT upgrade shafts, diff, etc :)

M I K E

"...s14/15 rack will fit and is roughly 50mm narrower than the auto stagea cradle and is pretty much identicle width to a factory manual stagea cradle. you have to use an s14 turbo subframe though - no hicas either :) ..."

"...you could run an s14/15 frame and keep your current struts?.."

this is what i've ended up doing, went with an s14 cradle which is ~50mm narrower and has no hicas :)

i am now running 18x9.5+1 on the rear with only 0.5degrees negative rear camber and have plenty of room between the strut and the inner edge of the wheel if i wanted to go wider

this first pic is with the stagea rear cradle fitted, then the following is of how my rears sit now with everything changed

100_1343.jpg

40775_137702389600874_109368819100898_157970_3916242_n.jpg

100_1393.jpg

if you have hicas, and want to keep it, then you should be able to run an r33 gts-t rear cradle too. but i don't think you do as you said you have adjustable toe arms (unless you are running cusco drag rods or something? lol)

only reason i went s14 is because it didn't have hicas. i used r33 half shafts though as my diff with 2 way centre is 5 bolt. all arms are exactly the same (lca, toe, camber and traction)

pm me if you have any questions, it's a simple swap but i'm more than happy to help

Edited by M I K E

I end up using a complete series 2 manual stagea rear end. A bit hard to find

I have have 19x9.5 +12 rims with 245/35 19 tyres and still have ample strut clearance (approx 10mm) WITHOUT the outer edge of the rim sitting outside the car

Plus have the stronger 6x1 bolt drive shafts, but did have to change to fork bottom shocks and remove hicas rack and fit lock bar.

A R33 GTS (non turbo) cradle does not have hicas, same as the S14/s15 cradle.

darrin, do you knwo if there is a difference in diff mounts between the turbo and non-turbo r33 cradles?

i know there is a difference in rear mounting points between turbo and non-turbo s14 cradles, make sure you get a turbo one if you buy one from a wrecker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...