Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How is the Graytronics a league above? What else does it do.

It's not about gimmicks or features. It's about quality - the Graytronics is orders of magnitude clearer, and more reliable. I don't know af too many people who haven't had trouble with Terraphone intercoms.

don't think that just because it has bells and whistles, it's a good product. If you want clear calls that won't let you down at the worst possible time, stay well clear of the terraphone stuff. I too thought it was good when it was all I'd ever tried. When I moved on to the graytronics I realised what shyte the terraphone stuff was

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Pretty much all this stuff is so overpriced for the actual electronics behind it - treading carefully here with forum rules etc

One of those 80s electronics gurus with some square frame glasses and a red wooley jumper could build you something infinitely better out of the jaycar catalogue for a 10th of the price.

Good to see companies like stilo stepping in and at least supplying a good quality tested product for the money you fork out.

It really isn't!

I might actually look at something as a bit of a project when I tackle this soon - I have access to a couple of said 80s electronics gurus.

I was so unimpressed with this gear for the price, and the rally computers too. I saw a market that Stilo and other manufacturers have since really moved to fill.

Theory dictates if we can attach a $79 head unit and some crappy speakers to a 12v car system without major interference, adding a couple of microphones shouldnt be a problem.

i'm with WARPS, the greytronics gear is way above anything else out there.

it's disign was done by the military, for use in Tank's so it's sound quality is awesome, cystal clear

with no feed back or electrical interference, as this kind of thing in a Tank can make thing's go BANG!!!

Cheers Jon

Theory dictates if we can attach a $79 head unit and some crappy speakers to a 12v car system without major interference, adding a couple of microphones shouldnt be a problem.

My thoughts exactly

i'm with WARPS, the greytronics gear is way above anything else out there.

it's disign was done by the military, for use in Tank's so it's sound quality is awesome, cystal clear

with no feed back or electrical interference, as this kind of thing in a Tank can make thing's go BANG!!!

Cheers Jon

Military spec, I love it :P

My two cents (and essay)…

You really only learn to nav and listen to the notes when you actually get on the job (I know, very helpful Kel!).

That said there's heaps you can do beforehand to get you well prepared for how it will be.

As many have said, watching as much in-car as you can is a big help, though try to pick cars which are similar to yours in speed. Having been in pretty quick cars and not so quick cars this can make a big difference to what you will end up including in the call (as an example, there’s not much point calling distances under 100m in an R35!).

If you can organise it, it’s also great to make your first event one where you just repeat the same road over and over (like Mt Buller) - perfect for refining what you do and don't include as well as perfecting the timings for the calls. The biggest challenge is working out the timing which suits you- as Tim has said every driver is different. Some like to know what's going on three corners ahead, while others have enough memory (just) for the next corner :P

The only way you'll learn this is trial and (unfortunately) error! - and you need to be giving your nav lots of feedback. You'll find yourself asking for the next call or telling them to slow down alot in the beginning!

Doing some decent reccy will help, though it also helps to remember that how you may read the notes at road rules speed versus race speed will be very different! I think sighting it though, seeing how it all works and doing a few runs is perfect for building up the confidence needed for your first real run.

The other bonus is that with many events your first run is a prologue, so less pressure, usually a shorter, easier run, often with a sighting drive-through beforehand, so you can get your eye in proper.

I think doing your first rally with someone close to you, who you trust, can make a difference- you'll both be much more forgiving and hopefully much more relaxed.

I am a big fan of buying notes- partly because all the events I do are interstate and I am usually with drivers who don't have a lot of time for reccy not to mention writing our own notes. A lot of people think 1-6 is better for people starting out and I tend to agree- it's much better to be concentrating on driving to the call instead of having to try and work out the difference between a 6/7/8 corner. Best 1-6 I think are Vandenbergs notes.

That said I've also run with a driver new to rally who wanted to use 1-10 long term so that’s what we started with, without any dramas. Rallynotes is my preferred 1-10 and have never had a problem with them.

For intercom, I've used terraphone, peltor (via an adaptor plug in my Stilo helmet) and a Stilo. Have to say I am a Stilo convert- the noise cancelling is amazing.

Sorry if some of this is pretty obvious- just know I knew almost nothing when I started out (and probably still don't know too much :( )

Good luck & hope to see you and your wife at a rally soon!

Also happy to have a chat to her before a rally about what to bring, what to do etc etc etc if that would help.

Thanks heaps Kel, no doubt I will be chasing you up at some stage to pick your brain :( Really appreciate the time put into the reply.

Side bar: We're not married lol

lol no worries at all- I have been fortunate enough to have a lot of good people give me advice over the years, so I'm happy to keep passing it on.

For intercom, I've used terraphone, peltor (via an adaptor plug in my Stilo helmet) and a Stilo. Have to say I am a Stilo convert- the noise cancelling is amazing.

.

I have a peltor fmt200 intercom in my car, it was damn expensive but suffers from terrible electrical interference, it is hardwired to the cars power system.

Does anyone have any tips for solving the feedback issues, is it as simple as running it on 9v power or can I purchase some sort of filter to place on the power line to cancel out any noise?

Any help would be greatly appreciated....and sorry for thread hijack :(

I have a peltor fmt200 intercom in my car, it was damn expensive but suffers from terrible electrical interference, it is hardwired to the cars power system.

Does anyone have any tips for solving the feedback issues, is it as simple as running it on 9v power or can I purchase some sort of filter to place on the power line to cancel out any noise?

Any help would be greatly appreciated....and sorry for thread hijack :yes:

I've never had a bad problem with interference noise, so haven't had to troubleshoot too much. HAve you got a good, clean source of power? I'm guessing a suppressor or some kind of filter should fix the problem.

On the topic of building a cheap intercom, I'm sure that if you can get quality electronic components cheap then you could build something cheaper than what's on offer. I know a guy in Newcastle building his own trip meters for rally (Ben Semple - member of Westlakes AUto Club for anyone interested). While his gear is cheaper than the main name brands, it's not what I'd call bargain basement. I think he was quoting somewhere near $400 for his top of the range model. I paid a couple of hundred over that for a Monit, but that was just my preference. I believe a few people have bought Ben's trip meters and are more than happy with them.

To echo Kel's comments, if you're a newbie driver, then you'll struggle to digest a lot of information while you're driving. Start off with basic notes and work your way up from there. The first pace noted rally I ever did, we just took the road book and added notes to any corner that was actually different to how it looked entering the corner. Ie if it held a surprise, then we made a note, otherwise we left the calls as they were. This worked very well for us, but having said that, we were used to blind rallies and already had some experience at reading the road.

I know that the top level drivers will have much finer descriptions for corners, but for those guys the difference in winning and losing is whether they can enter a fast sweeper at 120, or 140. THe slow stuff is always easier to read and you tend to have more time / room to respond if you stuff up a call

  • 2 months later...

Sorry to dredge up an old topic, but I'm in the process of buying a new Graytronics amplifier for my rally intercom (as I sold the unit with the last car but kept the headphones)

With the Exchange rate the way it is, the PRO amplifier is just a shade over $100 delivered (from UK). If you want a complete unit with headphones as well, they are about $220 delivered. Pretty bloody good buying, I think. They are now made by this mob (see link below). I don't know if this means that the quality will change - will know soon enough, guess.

http://www.rallyintercoms.co.uk/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...