Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My nearside dipped beam doesn,t work but the main beam does, I,ve put in new globes without success and there is no power to the dip beam terminal. I,ve checked all the fuses near the pedal box and all seem ok also the ones near the battery which are fine so 3 questions

Do the dip and main lights have seperate fuses for each one

Is there a fusebox i,ve missed

Does anybody know which fuses are for the h/lights

I,m guessing a wire has become disconnected where they were joined at compliance but can,t get hold of Chris Rogers who did the electrics for ADR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332655-headlight-not-working/
Share on other sites

do you have the factory HIDs in there or the butchered halogen 'conversion'?

if its the halogen conversion, open the back of the light unit up and check the ground wire. it probably attaches to the surround that the lamp fits into. make sure the adaptor plate it makeing good contact.

there is a 3rd fuse box BEHIND the battery, youll need to remove the cover around the batter to get to it. down there are the fises for the headlights.

hope that helps mate!

do you have the factory HIDs in there or the butchered halogen 'conversion'?

if its the halogen conversion, open the back of the light unit up and check the ground wire. it probably attaches to the surround that the lamp fits into. make sure the adaptor plate it makeing good contact.

there is a 3rd fuse box BEHIND the battery, youll need to remove the cover around the batter to get to it. down there are the fises for the headlights.

hope that helps mate!

Thanks Ian for info, think earth is ok as main beam works so will look at that 3rd fuse box. Chris Rogers did the lights so thinking it,ll be a good job

dipped beam? ok apologies i thought you meant the low-beam lights. Youre talking about the fog lights, correct?

ok, if it IS the fog lights youre talking about, during compliance the plug is removed from behind the stalk. if you look on the front-facing side of the stalk, there is a small pull-out section. remove it and there will be aplug that has been disconnected (mine was NOT cut - luckily). All you need to do is plug it back in, be VERY careful as i bent a pin and had to remove the indicator/headlight stalk (not all that difficult) and straighten it all out to get it working again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...