Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have used bendix before and have sworn never to go back to those pads ever again in my life on any car.....the amount of brake dust it creates is f**king insane.....and the braking performance claimed isnt really there.....well for me it wasnt anyway......QFM A1RM's for street and track so far are awesome......even Lucas are good value

Project Mu have just come out with a new pad called the "Club Racer"

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/

It sits firmly in between their "Type HC+" and the very famous "H16 03" pads (pretty much an industry standard in pro motorsport events)

The HC+ is probably the most aggressive pad you would want to run on the street but still remains a true street/track pad, whereas the "Club Racer" pad is not as effective on a street car (still OK though) but a killa pad on the track.

As far as the "H16 03" pads go, ask anyone involved in pro motorsport what they think about this puppy.

I ran EBC & Project Mu pads in the R and fell in love with the latter so I'll be going down this road again with the EVO.

are they harsh on rotors Luke?

cause I'm leaning towards a high coefficient pad for track days and the stock Brembo pads for daily..........can't really see how a dual purpose pad will perform at its best in both scenarios (it'll be compromised) hence why I'm leaning towards different pads for each situation rather than a one pad does all deal.

I think that a street/track pad may eventually be too harsh on rotors for daily use and not enough bite on a track once it gets hot....does the Ferodo 2500 fall into this category Luke?

I'm thinking of testing out the new project mu's later on. They are called something else over it japan so I assume there's a big mark up on the Aussie ones. I'll find out prices for those who are keen :yes:

yeah they only get better the hotter they get, depending on which pad you got Kye.

I think the Type HC+ are over $500 for front & rears, the Club Racer pads are around $700 and the H16 03's are around $1000 :(:yes:

yeah let me know what price you can source the Project Mu "Club Racer" pads for a 2010 EVO X MR with Brembo calipers please Luke. :)

Well I just got Dale's Brother Matt from "Growly Custom Machining" to slot my rotors and I'm a very happy boy.

Thought this would be an appropriate thread rather than starting another one.

Matt said that he would give SAU folk 20% discount = $100 for a set (machined front & back)

He has various designs that he can throw on the CNC machine so give him a call.

Too many peeps throw a bucket load of cash under their bonnett then get to Malalla and do shit times cause they can't stop...I reckon $100 was money well spent.

So what are you waiting for??

http://www.growly.com.au/services.html

052.jpg

Ryan, you hit the nail right on the head....couldn't agree more.

If the Club Racer pad hadn't been available (track only), the Type HC+ was def the one I would've used.......and it's a pad that you can drive home with and leave it in there.

Project Mu win in my books but everyone has their faves I suppose.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...