Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1995 WHITE R33 GTS-T M-SPEC

This car is in very good condition, I've serviced the car every 5000kms and usually only take it out on weekends. I've never actually had a chance to dyno or run it on the track yet. The reason I am selling is because I know have a family and need something more suitable for my needs. It's a regretful sale but I have to do it.

- 5 Speed Manaul

- 78,000 Original Kms (Log book from Japan to prove)

- Immaculate Condition inside/out

- Works 17" Gold Deep dish rims

- Nismo 400R front bar

- Nismo Eyelids

- Nismo Grille

- Auto metre Boost Gaugue

- Razo Gearknob

- Sony Headdeck

- Full Mongoose alarm and immobiliser

- All standards still included i.e. Airbags, Climate Control etc.

- UH OHH number plates might be included

Mods:

- T3/T4 Hi-flow Turbo

- Full exhaust from the dump pipe with Hi-flow Cat

- GTR Intercooler with full custom piping

- GTR Fuel Pump

- Blitz Super Sound Blow off Valve

- K&N M's Pod Filter

- GReddy ProfecB Boost Controller

- Front Tunabi Shocks and Springs

- Strut bar

- Aftermarket 1by1 lock diff (Both wheels spin)

- Apexi SAFCII

- Blitz Turbo Timer

- Irodium Spark Plugs

- Heavy Duty Brass Button Clutch. (only 2 weeks old)

- Heavy Duty Pressure plate (only 2 weeks old)

I'm looking for $20500. Any queries or such please contact me on 0414884432 and ask for Richard. PM's and emails to [email protected] are more than welcome.

Pics are available at:

http://www.gourou.tk/seti/front.jpg

http://www.gourou.tk/seti/angle.jpg

Yeah I reckon the car is definately underpriced too. But I wants a quick sale because as i said my stated family requires a different alternative. Im looking to get a WRX 4door if anyone is willing to make a swap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...