Jump to content
SAU Community

Subwoofer Buzzing

tmg

By tmg,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

tmg Enthusiast

tmg

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there. I installed a subwoofer in my car using an RCA converter I purchased from WOW sight and sound. I grafted the RCA converter up to the rear speaker wires (like it said to in the instructions) and then the RCA leads from the converter and into the amplifier (im using a 4 channel amp to power my sub btw if that makes any difference).

I've switched the amp to use the LPF (Low Pass Filter) setting on the rear channel and have put the gain and LPF knobs to half way and the bass setting to 2 (out of a possible 5) on the stock headunit. The problem is that whenever I have any sort of punchy bass the subwoofer doesn't kick, it vibrates or fuzzes instead. What have I done wrong and what can I do to fix it? Im hoping all it is, is that I need a new sub coz the coil might be stuffed or something...idk. I just want to have a good amount of bass! I've tried setting the LPF switch to -12, -6 and 0db settings and the fuzz is still there regardless.

So yeah. Pleeeeaaaasssee help me! :blink:

Edited by tmg
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333102-subwoofer-buzzing/
Share on other sites
blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Hey mate. Yes, it sounds like your sub may be dead, best way to check it is find someone else with a sub and hook it to your system, had a cheap audio-bahn sud die on me once, did the same thing ie. higher frequencies were ok, but good strong hits sounded nasty and made the amp cut out. Also, is your RCA converter adjustable? As if it's turned up too high the signal would be upsetting your amp. More info please: What amp do you have? What sub is it hooked to? Did you bridge the four channel amp or are you running it off one channel for the moment? Is the gear all new or 2nd hand? And did it work before you hooked it up as it is now? :ermm:

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
Hi there. I installed a subwoofer in my car using an RCA converter I purchased from WOW sight and sound. I grafted the RCA converter up to the rear speaker wires (like it said to in the instructions) and then the RCA leads from the converter and into the amplifier (im using a 4 channel amp to power my sub btw if that makes any difference).

I've switched the amp to use the LPF (Low Pass Filter) setting on the rear channel and have put the gain and LPF knobs to half way and the bass setting to 2 (out of a possible 5) on the stock headunit. The problem is that whenever I have any sort of punchy bass the subwoofer doesn't kick, it vibrates or fuzzes instead. What have I done wrong and what can I do to fix it? Im hoping all it is, is that I need a new sub coz the coil might be stuffed or something...idk. I just want to have a good amount of bass! I've tried setting the LPF switch to -12, -6 and 0db settings and the fuzz is still there regardless.

So yeah. Pleeeeaaaasssee help me! :P

call Chris Rogers in QLD

Details in link

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
Either your sub has had it, or it may be a case of checking your earth mounts. If the sub is on it's way out it may pay off to get some one else sub and see if it does it with there's

there can be other issue's which is why I thought you should call chris.

the list is long on why it does it , and if he is close or has time to listen to it on the phone much easier to sort that way.

doubt the sub is dead unless the voice coil is burnt on it.and dragging on the coil gap. a tensil lead can be hitting a the frame on the sub, the list is huge

before doing your head in just call chris

MOBASS Collaborator

MOBASS

Posted
Posted

Sounds to me like the gain is too high

What is the brand/model of RCA Adaptor?

If the RCA converter has adjustable gain, turn the gain down.

The Cheap RCA converters are not the easiest things to make sound good.

Also before trying one of your mate’s good subs in your car and possibly damaging it. I would be trying your sub in someone else working setups. Just a thought…….

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...