Jump to content
SAU Community

Subwoofer Buzzing

tmg

By tmg,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

tmg Enthusiast

tmg

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there. I installed a subwoofer in my car using an RCA converter I purchased from WOW sight and sound. I grafted the RCA converter up to the rear speaker wires (like it said to in the instructions) and then the RCA leads from the converter and into the amplifier (im using a 4 channel amp to power my sub btw if that makes any difference).

I've switched the amp to use the LPF (Low Pass Filter) setting on the rear channel and have put the gain and LPF knobs to half way and the bass setting to 2 (out of a possible 5) on the stock headunit. The problem is that whenever I have any sort of punchy bass the subwoofer doesn't kick, it vibrates or fuzzes instead. What have I done wrong and what can I do to fix it? Im hoping all it is, is that I need a new sub coz the coil might be stuffed or something...idk. I just want to have a good amount of bass! I've tried setting the LPF switch to -12, -6 and 0db settings and the fuzz is still there regardless.

So yeah. Pleeeeaaaasssee help me! :blink:

Edited by tmg
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333102-subwoofer-buzzing/
Share on other sites
blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

Hey mate. Yes, it sounds like your sub may be dead, best way to check it is find someone else with a sub and hook it to your system, had a cheap audio-bahn sud die on me once, did the same thing ie. higher frequencies were ok, but good strong hits sounded nasty and made the amp cut out. Also, is your RCA converter adjustable? As if it's turned up too high the signal would be upsetting your amp. More info please: What amp do you have? What sub is it hooked to? Did you bridge the four channel amp or are you running it off one channel for the moment? Is the gear all new or 2nd hand? And did it work before you hooked it up as it is now? :ermm:

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
Hi there. I installed a subwoofer in my car using an RCA converter I purchased from WOW sight and sound. I grafted the RCA converter up to the rear speaker wires (like it said to in the instructions) and then the RCA leads from the converter and into the amplifier (im using a 4 channel amp to power my sub btw if that makes any difference).

I've switched the amp to use the LPF (Low Pass Filter) setting on the rear channel and have put the gain and LPF knobs to half way and the bass setting to 2 (out of a possible 5) on the stock headunit. The problem is that whenever I have any sort of punchy bass the subwoofer doesn't kick, it vibrates or fuzzes instead. What have I done wrong and what can I do to fix it? Im hoping all it is, is that I need a new sub coz the coil might be stuffed or something...idk. I just want to have a good amount of bass! I've tried setting the LPF switch to -12, -6 and 0db settings and the fuzz is still there regardless.

So yeah. Pleeeeaaaasssee help me! :P

call Chris Rogers in QLD

Details in link

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
Either your sub has had it, or it may be a case of checking your earth mounts. If the sub is on it's way out it may pay off to get some one else sub and see if it does it with there's

there can be other issue's which is why I thought you should call chris.

the list is long on why it does it , and if he is close or has time to listen to it on the phone much easier to sort that way.

doubt the sub is dead unless the voice coil is burnt on it.and dragging on the coil gap. a tensil lead can be hitting a the frame on the sub, the list is huge

before doing your head in just call chris

MOBASS Collaborator

MOBASS

Posted
Posted

Sounds to me like the gain is too high

What is the brand/model of RCA Adaptor?

If the RCA converter has adjustable gain, turn the gain down.

The Cheap RCA converters are not the easiest things to make sound good.

Also before trying one of your mate’s good subs in your car and possibly damaging it. I would be trying your sub in someone else working setups. Just a thought…….

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Keeper
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By Keeper · Posted

      Got you mate. Check your email!
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • niZmO_Man
      For Sale 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 GT350 Premium

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      You need to put location and price
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...