Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys got my Rb20Det forsale + extra's.

RB20Det 187.xxxks Rb20Det, ECU ,Engine loom, Oem SMIC, Oem turbo, Radiator & engine mounts.

Engine is running strong and hasn't given me any major problems, and only a minor one being a lil bypass hose that had a pin hole which i got replaced! Starts 1st time every go and runs smooth through the revs. The engine is still in the car, so if you would like to give it a spin of the key be my guest, cant drive it tho as the car has no rego atm! Engine has been serviced every 5000k's with oil filter and fuel filter also. Spark plugs every 10.000ks.

So what i have for sale is perfect for a conversion!

Price: $800 for the lot

Condition of sale: Pick up

Location: Seven hills

SNC00273.jpg

Any questions just shoot me a PM!

Thanks, Pat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333199-syd-rb20det-out-of-r32/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...