Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

97 R33 SKYLINE M-SPEC S2 - 40TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

92000KLMS

RB25DET MANUAL

ARCTIC WHITE

15% BLACK TINT

JDM NISMOxXxX JISMO WINDSCREEN BANNER LOL

FACTORY SERIES 2 FRONT BAR

URAS TYPE 2 SIDESKIRTS

GTR REAR APRONS

NISMO CLEAR SIDE INDICATORS

DAMPER ADJUSTABLE KYB LOWERED COILOVERS

SLOTTED REAR BRAKE ROTORS

ROLLED FRONT GAURDS

18INCH DEEP DISH STARCORPS, 8.5 INCH FRONT, 9.5 INCH REAR

30MM AND 10MM SPACERS

STRETCHED 225s FRONT, STRETCHED 235s REAR

GCG HIGH FLOWED BALLBEARING TURBO

FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER

HICAS LOCK BAR

DRIFT BOV

POD FILTER

CUSCO STRUT BRACE

D1 SPEC OIL CATCH CAN

FULL TRUST 3.5INCH EXHAUST

BIGGER INJECTORS

BOSCH 040 FUEL PUMP

ADJUSTABLE MALPASSI FUEL PRESSURE REG

EXCEEDY HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH

TOLMI 2 WAY DIFFERENTIAL

REMAPPED ECU

NISMO SHORT SHIFTER

PIONEER HEADUNIT

KENWOOD SPLITS FRONT

ROCKFORD FOSGATE 6INCH REARS

KENWOOD 1000W MONOBLOCK CLASS D AMP

PIONEER 12INCH 1000W SUB IN BOX

BLUE/RED/GREEN/WHITE LED SPECO BOOST GAUGE

APEXI TURBO TIMER

BLUE LED DASH

BLUE LED CLIMATE SCREEN

BLUE LED CLOCK

BLUE LED PWR WINDOW BUTTON

BLUE LED FACTORY ROOF AND BOOT LIGHTS

ALLOY GEER KNOB

FULL 5 SET OF FACTORY S2 MESH FLOORMATS

Very well looked after grade 5 import,only 92000klms,extremely reliable but with decent power.I dont have dyno sheets but i'm told is making around 320rwhp.Running 14-15psi with no boost controller, so with a power fc and retuning would make around 380rwhp easy,but honestly its great as it is,dous'nt need a thing.

Completely unmarked interior,body and paint are in great condition,engine bay is spotless,carpet is spotless,everything works,great aircon(though I never use it)

I really dont want to let this car go but unfortunately the gearbox in my wifes car has given out and needs a new one so will sell to fix the other car if I have to.

I would sell the car for $15000 with 6 months rego and rwc.Plates are not included.

I'm located in Hervey Bay qld, about 2.5hrs north of brisbane.

If interested,pm or email or msg me.0401228867

[email protected]

Rob

post-75302-1281976299_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976333_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976375_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976412_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976543_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976572_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976593_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976648_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976694_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976731_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976814_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1281976885_thumb.jpg

Edited by GHT70 R33
gearbox goes in your wifes car so you sell your skyline to replace ?!! WHY

Beleive me i dont want to sell it, but if I have to I will.

  • 2 weeks later...
gl with the sale.. bit of a long shot but are you willing to part with just the rims?

no sorry, just want to sell the whole car. Ive fixed the gearbox in our other car but now we are expecting a baby so really need to sell to get family car. make an offer,worst i can say is no.

  • 2 weeks later...

Im interested in swapping for a 4door r34 if anyone has something nice, i dont want a stocker its gotta be sweet, no shopping trolley list down the side if you know what i mean.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...