Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTiR Is this a Nissan ? I just had a look on carsales and couldn't find the marque. 'scuse my ignorance >_<

GTIR - AWD turbo hatchback pulsar sr20det (from memory they run individual throttle bodies) - nice cars, always wanted one but at the time they were over priced... $16000 for a mid 90's import with 200,000k's on it..

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Wood Ducks = random assholes.

At my work we mainly deal with automotive trade and industrial. Wood ducks are retail jerks who come in at 4:59 wanting the special screw that holds up sunvisor on a 1961 Gogomobil.

The hunt goes no-where :D

I've got one last 180 to see on Thurs, then nada that I can get to without hassle.

The whole 180sx marque (that I've come across) has been fraked by silly mods and owners who have obviously spent far to much time reading Fast Fours, then gone out and worked out every permutation of mod that either makes the car go slower of blows it up---then done them to thier unsuspecting 180s , though I have to say theres a goodly number of the same farkers who have applied the same logic to WRXs from what I've seen so far as well.

This excercise gives a whole new reason for car dealers to exist , -and me the shits..

I think if I'm determined to get a 180 I'm going to have to bring one in ---actualy see if Kristian (Iron Chef) thinks there may be one worth bringing in first

I have been looking at the R33GTS-t ser IIs on carsales and there seem to be some good ones around so I'm seriously thinking of saying farkit I'm back in a line , stop bitchin and eat the costs.

Hey,

I'm looking for a 180sx too. There's some pretty tasteless crap on many of the cars that are for sale right now. Guess I'll steer clear of the cars on the coast. Mind you I'm prepared to overlook some trashy mods if they can be binned without leaving holes in the stock components.

Cheers

Scott

Hey,

I'm looking for a 180sx too. There's some pretty tasteless crap on many of the cars that are for sale right now. Guess I'll steer clear of the cars on the coast. Mind you I'm prepared to overlook some trashy mods if they can be binned without leaving holes in the stock components.

CheersScott

You'd be right about the crap --BUT-- Motorman Imports have two in stock right now I think they're both fresh imports they are $17/18000.00 ea, too rich for my blood BUT they both look very clean and tidy. here's the Ph No if you're interested 3808 7512.

:thumbsup:

:D Well folks the search is over. !!---but not quite as I expected.

My thanks to everyone who helped me out with info , OUTSTANDING HELP. THANK YOU.

The 180sx I saw today , well the less said the better, BUT, if you could pick it up for $9K and you didn't mind a fair bit of tidying , (about $3/4K would see you right) I recon you could have a very nice little ride as the base mods on the car are OK, (turbo/zorst/front mount). the pod is a shambles and needs giving the flick, I didn't drive it but I'd bet that it will drive ok, the rotors are unlipped and I'd think that the pads will be sweet..large amount of tidying all over to be done--the trick will be to get it for less than $10K , not my cuppa anyway. BTW the centre of the bonnet is now painted black so some of the pics on carsales are of this car -but not quite as it is now. paint is tidy but not more than tidy.

I'd had enough and as I was just round the corner from motorman imports I ducked in and half an hour later ducked out with this-

mr21.th.jpg

mr24.th.jpg

89 MR2 Targa , Turbo, 135000kms, aftermarket 17's, with excellent Direza rubber, TRD tuning and suspension upgrades, excellent paint and interior, runs like a swiss watch, pulls like a mallee bull, gearbox tighter than a fishes. ---and brakes like ice skates :wacko: --being fixed for roadworthy now , on road 6mnths rego and transfer fees included , with stat waranty $11500.00.

TAKE IT AWAY ZIPPA-- :D

Just as a note Motorman Imports have some very nice and varied stock on thier yard at reasonable asks thier phone is- (07) 38087512 WEB- motorman.com.au

Edited by BASHO
Haha nice, I love those. Will get one someday. 89 or 98?

Glad you didn't go 180... SR20's sound worse than lancers with fart cannons lol

On the MY stakes it would be an MY90 (late 89 build/compliance ), it's a bit costly until you figure it includes all on roads warranty and it's near a minty, Redbook puts them at $9700.00 private sale, carsales has the same car, same year, advertised listings from about $10K and up to some silly prices, biggest is $26k I think , good luck to whoever is selling that one. :wacko:

if you're loking for new wheels (no pressure) but i have some work VSxx (or possibly discontinued rezaxII?) in gold face finish for sale shortly... i'm unsure of the EXACT width and offset but yeah, they're good for toyota, they're on my car in vic so let me know if you're interested..

if you're loking for new wheels (no pressure) but i have some work VSxx (or possibly discontinued rezaxII?) in gold face finish for sale shortly... i'm unsure of the EXACT width and offset but yeah, they're good for toyota, they're on my car in vic so let me know if you're interested..

I'm interested could you post a pic up + what a rim wieghs ? the ones on the car now may look a little dated but they are 2 piece and very light. :D

BASHO - no pressure, again.. no pressure, i'm totally unsure of the widths and offsets but from what i've seen of others' MR2s online, these SHOULD fit quite neatly and have a good stance..

basically - from what i can see, the wheels LOOK like work VSxx... they're definitely work, they're definitely VS... and i can only assume they're VSXX... 17inch... the offset looks more appropriate for a honda / mazda... but - MR2 seems to take similar offsets?

the reason i'm so unsure is cos they're on the car i imported.. the seller put these wheels on it to sell the car, and kept his proper wheels.. which i don't want (i love the VSXX but these sizes and offsets are no good for my massive guards)

so i'm selling them..

but if you DO want them.... best to let me know sooner rather than later, because the car's about to be shipped from VIC to WA, so if you want them... i'll freight them to you from vic.. it's easier to freight the wheels to you from VIC than it is to ship from WA.. make sense?

sorry i've been prattling on, i've been trying to locate a pic of the wheels haha.. my laptop sh@t itself so i lost everything =(

but here's a pic i found =)

EDIT: i'll know in about a day or two the exact specs of the wheels.. just have to get my guy to have a look at the sticker on the inside =P oh and they include tyres of course..

post-13494-1282746392_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mr Eps
IMO a 180 would have been a far better buy but each to his own.

just be careful with oversteer in the wet, MR2s are known for losing it easily

Mate if I could of found a clean 180 I would have bought it, the only good clean ones I found are at Motorman and there's too much on them IMO, they're a popular ride and this is reflected in the price.

Also I think far fewer of the 180 's appear to have been imported than Skylines which again is reflected in the price and they're a 4, all good, cuts down on running costs.

Thank for the warning on the oversteer it's appreciated , with the ammount of power this thing puts down I'm not suprised as the front end is obviously light.

I'll be sourcing some coilys for it as the set up is way to harsh for our roads anyway.

Bag of sand in the front maybe ? :)

get some decent soft tyres. since you're on a budget, i would recommend looking into KU36s or federal RS-Rs.

then find a skid pan day, to learn the oversteer points and all the finer abilities to control the car, that you really can't do on the road. they usually are quite cheap and never heard anyone that hasn't enjoyed them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...