Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1994 GTS-T R33 Skyline

engine:

RB25det motor 135k's on the clock did a service - 2000ks ago

gt3076r turbo

custom braided oil feed and return lines from ats

full turbo back 3" exhaust with a custom screamer

blitz cs intercooler

simota intake

oil cooler with filter relocation kit

sard 850cc injectors

walboro fuel pump

splitfire coilpacks

greddy profec b 2 boost controller - set at 16 high and 12 low

microtech lt12 with hand controller

exedy brass button clutch

nismo 1 way diff

gearbox has been rebuilt, still have reciepts

suspension and brakes

isc coilovers

full slotted dba rotors 

QFM pads

Braided brake lines

on ssr light weight wheels wrapped with kuhmos ku36 fronts and ku31 rears

interior

drift steering wheel

r34 GT-R seats (extremely comfortable)

nismo leather shift knob

tisonic immobliser

32537_398322284150_535969150_4327968_1703224_n.jpg

46020_423376014150_535969150_4982348_567435_n.jpg

40788_423376044150_535969150_4982349_3715879_n.jpg

car is currently making 236kw on 16psi on pretty much a detune, can make 285+ if wanted

car is excellent condition with no crash history, well looked after

Asking 13,500 ono. selling for finacial reasons, im not in a hurry to sell so dont bother low balling. 

car also comes with 3 months rego. Still have reciepts for most work done

pm me on here for more or can call on 0430204243

Edited by follar99
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333709-1994-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

lol "heavily modified" hilarious, mad id love to see what you would call an actual heavy modified car, these are just light mods mate new turbo, injectors, computer, fuel pump, cooler and boost controller are the beginning steps to a heavy modified car.

in real terms heavy modified is internal work or pushing 300kw safley a few bolt ons is nice and im shure the car is awsm but when i saw heavy modified i was expecting the works, diff, full suspention, brakes, chassi work, forged engine pushing 300+kw thats heavy in my books.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333709-1994-r33-gts-t/#findComment-5415775
Share on other sites

oh cheers for the input man, like i finally know what a heavily worked car is now. been living my life without this information. seriously man f@ck off if you dont have anything good to say or about buying the car, tool

  • Nope 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/333709-1994-r33-gts-t/#findComment-5416726
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if you can disassemble the thing and put it backwards for different ramp rates. They're both "2 ways" or both "1.5 ways" because well, 2 ways and 1.5 ways are the same 'thing' I do not know for sure, but I believe the 38420-RSS15-B5 is the 1 way, and 38420-RSS20-B5 is the two way. In other words, I predict Nissan considers this: to be a 1.5 way. No idea what actually happens when it arrives/you disassemble it. It would be an excellent question to ask Nismo directly! I somehow doubt you will get an answer though, I feel you would be the first person to document what you encounter when you open the box and the internet would be grateful.
    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...