Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Grunta, I'm not sure about the ECU on the GTT vs NA on the Auto models. From my understanding you still need to run engine management? Someone might want to clarfiy that.

How much are RB25DE's worth for resale? I'm just thinking what the cost for you would be to Buy half cut, deliver it, remove old engine, install new engine, then whatever else still needs to be done after that; vs keeping your engine, even still removing it and doing internal engine work. I'm not sure exact costs, but would that not be rather close to that of complete engine swap? A rebuilt GT-V I think would be better than simply swapping over for a DET, if you're looking at removing the engine.

Well I'm almost ready to have it all put in!

Just waiting on FMIC and catch can to arrive, then need to try get a factory BOV or cheap but good plumback and pod filter.

I also believe that I will need a silicon aftermarket or factory induction pipe that goes to the turbo inlet...or can the factory one be modified to suit?

Also any recommendations for tuning places? I think Robin said he usually sends them over to APC, something close to slacks creek would be ideal to get it all done together.

How driveable is an RB25DE+T without having the tuning and timing adjustments done straight away?

^ driving it straight away without any tuning or timing would be highly not recommended.

ecu will be running nuts with all the extra air & shiet coming thru..

will a stock manifold from a R32/33 fit on a R34 neo?

Edited by dori32

Nathan man goodluck dude, im still contemplating the firgures behind the upgrade.

ETA on when your gonna' start ?

And how you gonna' get the car from the place your getting the work done to the tuning place, i dont think it will be driveable.

MRXTCZ

Nathan man goodluck dude, im still contemplating the firgures behind the upgrade.

ETA on when your gonna' start ?

And how you gonna' get the car from the place your getting the work done to the tuning place, i dont think it will be driveable.

MRXTCZ

Yeah the figures can add up quite quickly, but it depends on where you get parts from. Keep a look out on ebay as well, I've seen some R34 Neo model turbos going recently, and even saw a set of neo injectors listed at $20 starting! Check the for sales here as well, always bargains keep coming up, and on NS.

I decided to see how I go with a Monsta Performance Delta Fin Intercooler. They sell on ebay for $350+$54, but lately they've done some starting at 1cent. I didn't have much luck the first time fighting over it in the last minute, but second time around I picked it up for $252 plus $54, for a full kit. For what it's worth I'll see how it goes.

I'll probably get it done at PerFourMance motorsport in Slacks Creek, pretty sure there's tuning places around there, it's like performance heaven down there lol Hopefully getting it from workshop to tuner won't be too much of a problem then.

Robin at Perfourmance said he usually sends them over to APC, which is about 1.9kms away. Then again, a brief search spat out some not so favourable results, so now I'm really not sure of where to go.

I'm still getting to know the places around Brisbane to get work done, so I'm really open to suggestions. I don't want to break the budget in labour, but I'd rather spend a little more if I need to and get quality work done..specially when it comes to the tuning of a RB25DE+t

I'm probably going to proceed with the conversion either before or after xmas. I want to take a trip back down to the Gong for xmas though, so that's why I'm thinking after xmas. Though I've got pretty much everything in or on the way except for a BOV and pod filter, so knowing me I'll get impatient and just get it done with :D

I've been thinking of options with exhaust as well, contemplated the idea of having a 3" mandrel bend (or 2.75"??) made up with resonators and a GTR Muffler if I can get hold of a cheap one. That way I can keep the factory look and stay quiet, and I figure that the GTR Muffler should flow well enough for my needs. I'm not sure what the weight would be like though compared to an aftermarket S/S.

^ thanks nate dawg.

other things im getting are brand new; fuel pump, intercooler,exhaust etc

No worries man

I picked up my Walbro GS342 on ebay for $145 posted from http://stores.ebay.com.au/PERFORMANCE-WORLD-STORE:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=320308878704

They are super quick with postage. I bought it on a sunday, had it delivered to work, it was on my desk when I got there!

As for intercoolers, I got one of these Monsta Intercoolers on ebay http://stores.ebay.com.au/MonstARetailCentral.

For the price I'm willing to see how they go:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=220294349334

They do one listing at a time starting at 1cent. Or you can choose the buy it nows, works out around $400ish posted. I got mine $304 all up in the end, it's a bit of a fight bidding for it in the last few minutes though.

Exhaust, unless you can pick up a second hand one, just get a custom one made up. Mr XTC might have a 3" catback for sale if he doesn't give in to doing the turbo conversion :/

^ Lol fair enough.

yeah im gonna get all the stuff in syd if i can..

so jjr stealth cooler kit, walbro pump from gas motorsports etc

want it all local to save postage & i can inspect stuff before purchasing :P

since its only gonna be done once might as well do things properly.

my turbo should be arriving on my work desk tomorrow or so

cant wait!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...