Jump to content
SAU Community

How to turbo your N/A

666DAN

By 666DAN,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

damn..how do you keep finding these things!! first the BOV, now the oil cooler kit! I would take the cluster, but I'm also a bit turned of by the holes in the dash for them.. I'll probably go with the din panel ones if / when i put gauges in :P

  • Replies 862
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MirKz
MirKz

havent you forgotten to list pistons ? you need low compression pistons, otherwise using the standard high compression pistons that NA's have will just F*&k ure engine VERY quickly.. although i h

mrjelly
mrjelly

i have a 1993 r32 gts with a rb20det conversion. i bought it this way so i dunno whats been done. power seems sweet up until 5000rpm, where it seems to hit some flat spots in power from there onwards.

unarmed_skyline
unarmed_skyline

hey i just though i would go back a little bit and add something in, in relation to drilling the oil return line into the block a way of getting around this would be to buy an oil cooler and run the o

Posted Images

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

I've got another question in regards to the GReddy eManage harnesses. I have the unit with the universal harness that it comes with, and also an optional ignition harness, but will I also need the injector harness? Or will it be sufficient without the injector harness?

hall sales Enthusiast

hall sales

Posted
Posted

sorry to throw this in the thread but.

when would i expect boost to hit with a R32 turbo and basically r32 ecu, etc on a rb25de block?

just contemplating a cheap upgrade on my car. and what boost would be considered safe on it? 8psi?

thanks andy.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

Hey Andy, not too sure with an R32 Turbo, but I imagine that it would be smaller and boost even quicker with the high compression, maybe too small? With an RB25DE with R33 turbo, I've read that they start boosting at around 1800RPM, then at 3500 - 4000 variable timing kicks in and it launches.

7PSI seems to be the safe boost level, though some have had good results even at 10PSI with a supposed safe tune.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted (edited)

received my GTT injectors today..

picking up the stock manifold on th urs and then its off to get some surgery for a external gate outlet :P

i paid for my turbo last monday & i still havent received it ;) hope the guy hasnt done a dodgey.

he msgd me on fri saying due to wotrking night shifts he wasnt able to send it during the week but will get it sent on fri.

i hope it arrives soon or else ill have to make a trip interstate!!

Edited by dori32
dreamaaa Enthusiast

dreamaaa

Posted
Posted

hope you get your turbo!

im starting to think if its worth buying my 25gt and holding it for a year and then turbo conversion....

maybe i should just buy a 180sx and wait it out till the start of 2010 for a gtt......

not sure what to do because r34s are so attractive!

Vik Mentor

Vik

Posted
Posted

PM recieved, Reply sent..

lol dori your front bar is sex, i'll rape it lmao..

fcukn nice, anyways, hope yah get your turbo .. or else the SAU mafia* are cumn for it hahaha

MRXTCZ

* SAU does not condone mafia activities ( just thought id put it in :) )

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted

With restricted P Plate skyline owners coming to their full licence, I think interest in turbocharging N/A's is going to be a bit more common.

dreamaaa, if all you have to wait for is a year, it might be best to hold out till then. You can save a bit more towards a GTT plus mods. That is of course if you don't buy a 180SX and get bitten by the modding bug, and start out with a stereo, then a pod filter, then put a catback, then upgrade headers, etc etc.. though you could buy a 180 and later drop in an RB...now there's a thought lol

In my opinion though, if you were going to buy the R34 GT with plans to turbocharge it later, and you can hold off keeping it pretty much stock standard for that time, then you may be better off selling it to get the R34 GTT afterwards. For those of us though who have already invested a fair bit into our N/A Skylines, it makes sense to do the conversion.

By start 2010 GTT's should drop a bit more in price, and hoepfully for those who want to sell their N/A's, with demand for non-turbo skylines for provisionals, the R34 GT hopefully shouldn't drop too much in value, unless the market gets saturated with them in which case it would just be another non-turbo skyline.

N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
Posted
yea i agree!

i just posted a new thread in the turbo section.

was wondering about de turbooing and other mods on a gtt and raising the compression rate to make it drivable....

wondering if anyone has tried this..

It's been thought of before and it's not exactly do-able. If you used a thinner head gasket you'll raise the compression a bit, but for the cost of doing that and de-turboing, getting a factory / aftermarket exhaust manifold etc.. only to return it to the factory turbo set up later, it seems like a lot of time, labour and money. I'm not sure that the stock GTT ECU will be suitable either? Basically it will cost more than it's worth, it still won't drive quite like a non-turbo skyline, and to go back to a turbo means more costs etc.. again.

What you would spend de-turboing a skyline, you might as well buy the n/a skyline now, then save for a turbo conversion and forged pistons later on.

Besides, I think the rule is something along the lines of "an engine that has had its performance modified". Modifying a turbo engine, even if it is decreasing its performance, could still be classified as modifying.

Whilst not necessarily skylines, there's a number of N/A cars out there that are still pretty good performance and P Plate Legal. Even an S13 would be a good Nissan to get around in for a while before buying a Skyline. I had a NX Coupe with an SR20DE as a first car for a couple of months before saving a bit and buying the R34 GT. I had plenty of practice on the company car (XR6 MKII) so I wasn't a stranger to N/A 6 Cylinder sports cars, but looking back I'm happy I started out with less power before stepping straight up to a turbocharged skyline. As some have said in other threads, learn to get the most out of an N/A by improving your driving before buying a turbocharged car.

dreamaaa Enthusiast

dreamaaa

Posted
Posted

ahh i didnt think it would be worse than a conversion!

if thats the case i wont bother....shame though.

I was thinking about a 180sx. but r34 is newer and i love the shape etc. Also the thought of having a car for about a year then having to try and sell it is quite annoying. i hate time wasters that test drive it etc. id rather just trade it in( which is probably what i might do. get the gtt with a 2-3 year warranty isnt a bad idea....)

and i aggree with not stepping straight into turbo cars. There are so many P platers that step straight in to a trubo car and its hard to walk away when your cars head is in a tree.

dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted
Had a chat to WYTSKY, his hitting over 200rwkw with stock internals. So im guessing i should be fine if i upgrade the turbo and all. :laugh:

Good tune = Good fun :P

MRXTCZ

i spoke to him about his conversion and he is running around 12+psi as well! gusty fella.

he goes the response & torque is huge!!!!!!!!!!!

yea. would you prefer turbo conversion or engine swap from gtt+ transmission.brakes and later on clutch...

get a GT-V, basically got all the GTT hardware except the turbo motor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...