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been playing alot more of this since i buggered my wrist and cant play GT5. seems everyone has a warrior now.

im lvling my second warrior atm, a gobo. and i must say i love how they've livened up the low lvl questing, you move on faster, and all the areas are revamped etc. just good to see a change, and fun again to lvl a lowbie.

FURY ftw

Edited by boiracer

Yeah my warrior is 83, fury spec, and about 1/3 of my gear is prot, but with the huge amounts of strength even from quests reward/dungeon blue gear, I can comfortably do 8000-10,000 dps.

I haven't yet tried tanking in Cata dungeons, but I assume it wouldn't be that much different to level 80 WotLK heroics.

All in all, really enjoying my warrior - has 89,000 hp when buffed :D

What are rogues like to level (quests/dungeons etc)? I have a level 12 rogue I think, with full BOA's and enchants. Good to play so far and doesn't seem like too much downtime.

Also have a 70 warlock in BOA's....also good to level and to play @ end game??

I like the hardness more of a challenge. + I hate how they turned epics into welfare in BC / WOTLK back to normal now.

Yeah, that's why I like Cata so much more than WotLK...epic gear seems a lot harder to acquire, just like it was a real challenge to get it in Vanilla....however, even though you could get epic gear kind easily in BC, it was still quite difficult to get good quality epic gear in BC (through SSC, TK, Hyjal & BT).

Any who, I'll be looking forward to hitting 85, getting lots of heroics done and slowly gearing up towards some raids :)

tanked my first heroic last night...........

FINALY

and was only cos the rest of the group was a guild and they were geared lolz

no tank drops.... fml

Edited by Clutch

tanked my first heroic last night...........

FINALY

and was only cos the rest of the group was a guild and they were geared lolz

no tank drops.... fml

ha! by the sounds of it, you got stiffed!

Have you not got any of the epic 85 gear from reputation factions?

If you get exalted with the Guardians of Hyjal, you can get epic quality tanking plate boots. Im already halfway to revered through quests and shit.

There is some decent gear, but it will take a while to get good quality epics and be a f**king huge karnt tank with 5zillion hp.

im disappointed with wow lately, decided to play the other night, went in que for a bg, it said recommended wait time 2 mins, and i waited 20, and still nothing, so i stopped playing again...

BG's are gay though. The only time i ever BG'd was in Burning Crusade to get the pvp gear for my warlock so i could get into Karazhan LOL. And the only BG i ever did was Alterac Valley....when the wait time was at least 1.5 hours and horde never used to loose!

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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