Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

unfortunately any insurance company you go to will take your age, vehicle and driving record into concideration before giving you the cost.

and given your current circumstance, I would say you are up for a fair bit.

Yehh, im hoping its not too rediculous.. i might just have to settle of 3rd party.

Cheers mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335290-insurance/#findComment-5427316
Share on other sites

If you are on good behaviour at your age, your premium is gonna be screwed until you are 25... sorry to be the bearer of bad news. The BEST way to find the cheapest premium is to call around though, so that you can answer the questions and they can check your location and determine your premium if you take up a policy. That is the protip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335290-insurance/#findComment-5429490
Share on other sites

To be honest I am still in similar shoes as you I am in Sydney and only 2 companies are willing to insure me which is NRMA and Just car. All the other companies say all theses different reasons. With your Age its worse and your premium will sky rocket. I am currently 22 and like i mention only Just Car and NRMA. Shannons say that because i have not driven a turbo charged car for 12 months before they will not insure me. I can tell you that my premium is above 2500 and i am 22 with a grade rating 2 from just car insurance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335290-insurance/#findComment-5429554
Share on other sites

as people have said, ring around and get quotes because one company might be cheaper for one person, but more expensive for another.

my tip though, is have some lube ready because youre age and driving history is going to mean that you get shafted good and proper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335290-insurance/#findComment-5430131
Share on other sites

haha looks like i am goin to get shafted doesnt it!

ill just call around n see how it goes...the last thingi want is to run into some luxury car without insurance and have the bill for the rest of my life...i spose a few grand is better than a hundred. cheers for th help everyone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335290-insurance/#findComment-5434517
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...