Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic says 1998 Nissan R34 4 Door Manual for sale.

Reason for sale: Been tossing up whether to finish my car off and use this on the road and track but as its a clean example of a 34, and well I'm no Schumacher so I would prefer to get a track car that I can use and if I do smack it I can still get into my road car and drive around no worries. Plus as I work away this thing sits at home half a year collecting dust.

Price, there are a few options here:

- $16000 as it is

- $17000 and the 100k Service will be done (belt, every fluid, cam seals etc)

- $20,000 includes all the upgraded parts I have been collecting for it. HKS GT25/30 turbo with all lines, HKS hard intake pipe, HKS Actuator, Power FC + Handset, Turn flow FMIC with all piping/hoses, 6500cc injectors (straight fitments) Z32 AFM + plug and a near new O2 sensor.

I bought the car in February 09 after spending quite some time looking for a 34 4 door with a sunroof. Car is silver, 100% standard except for the blue dash lights and blue led parkers. The only mods I have done is replace the rear speakers and fitted a Sony Cd Deck with I-pod, MP3 and Bluetooth. The deck is that Sony blue colour so it all matches in really well. Interior is very clean and has tinted windows. Also has factory Xenon Headlights.

I did a full manual conversion almost right on the 100,000k mark with the intentions of keeping and developing it. I have used the original dash cluster with the manual face on it so its the original Ks (have the spare manual cluster that I stripped to keep my original one in there), used original R34 pedals so they were a direct fitment, the only thing it needs is the steering wheel to finish it off. When the conversion was done I also fitted a brand new Chromolly flywheel (factory weight) and Exedy clutch with a heavier clamping load. All that gear is less than 2000ks old and there was $1000 alone between the clutch, freight and the flywheel.

The car has 101xxxks on the clock, as I said If someone wants I can get the service done. Will swap for cash and a track car that has basic stuff like diff, suspension and some engine mods. Don't need a 300rwkw monster but something with say 200-220 would be fine. I have seen a few im keen on but show me what you got.

Giulian

PM or 0401 184 069

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335606-fs-98-34-4-door/
Share on other sites

Has Australian standard black wired alarm with anti hijack setting in it. Basically locks the doors when its started and unlocks them when you turn the ignition off.

Will swap for 1JZ Cressy + cash my way and maybe chaser depending on price, condition etc

Giulian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335606-fs-98-34-4-door/#findComment-5438604
Share on other sites

As requested photos available, these were taken before the manual conversion was done and I was looking to spend around 20k on a car but I am trying to cut down the price of my daily as it sits at home half the year as I work away and but a track car.

Photos are about half way down

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Eo...or-t298550.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335606-fs-98-34-4-door/#findComment-5446032
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

NOW FITTED WITH MORE THAN MINT R33 GTR WHEELS AND BRAND NEW TYRES ALL ROUND AND THE 100K SERVICE WILL BE DONE IN THE NEXT MONTH AS WELL.

WILL THROW IN THE INTERCOOLER IF IT SELLS FOR $17500

Really want to free up some money and move to a cheaper car and put some cash into my house, will part swap for a good 250cc learner bike as well or a cheaper car, silvia or something but must be turboed!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335606-fs-98-34-4-door/#findComment-5515043
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...