Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Power Drop At Wot.

sholm23

By sholm23,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

sholm23 Apprentice

sholm23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so i replaced the plugs, Went from a BCPR5ES 0.8mm to BCPR6ES 0.8mm.. the tip on the 5's were like white/grey and the surround was black. I Put in the 6's and took it for a run around the block. The power is no longer at 1/2 throttle but no where at all. New plugs looked the same, like a light grey which is fine is it not? maybe a little lean... I also put in a Turbotech boost controller and set it as low as it would go.

Its ok off boost, it comes on to boost fine (about 12psi according to aftermarket guage) but it struggles to rev past 5000rpm. All the way it up it feels like someones got the brakes on or something, its sluggish and a little rough and when it gets to 4-5000 it sometimes backfires. Not real good.

I reallly want to get the car driving well without a tune. I don't care if it wont make big power at the moment i just need it running fine all the way to redline.

I'm guessing its just the extra air making the ECU do stupid things.. Is there any way of getting it to boost to 6-7psi? Different actuater? Is it definatly too much air or am i still having ignition troubles?

sholm23 Apprentice

sholm23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bit of an update.. For some reason i can't edit posts. Low post count maybe?

Anyway I took the boost controller off just to ensure i'm getting as little boost as possible... seems to be just over 10psi. I also replaced one of the more suspect silicon hoses on the intercooler piping. It runs how it did at the start of the thread but theres more power then before. I might still have a boost leak so i'll be doing a thorough check over on the weekend.

Also bought a Bosch 040 fuel pump, fuel and oil filter so i'll be doing all that soon. Hopefully after a tune it will be sweet. I'll update the thread after the tune but if you think i could fix it another way please reply.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
Bit of an update.. For some reason i can't edit posts. Low post count maybe?

Anyway I took the boost controller off just to ensure i'm getting as little boost as possible... seems to be just over 10psi. I also replaced one of the more suspect silicon hoses on the intercooler piping. It runs how it did at the start of the thread but theres more power then before. I might still have a boost leak so i'll be doing a thorough check over on the weekend.

Also bought a Bosch 040 fuel pump, fuel and oil filter so i'll be doing all that soon. Hopefully after a tune it will be sweet. I'll update the thread after the tune but if you think i could fix it another way please reply.

Even 10psi let alone over is enough to make the ECU throw a tantrum, I got splitfires, gapped plugs down to 0.6mm and it still misfired due to dropping to 9:1 afr. Unless you have a bad vac leak (which I doubt because it wouldnt idle properly) I think getting it on a dyno with someone who can do a cheap remap is your best solution. Trust me though, a tune is the best upgrade you can possibly do, it will be like a brand new car to drive when you get it back, the difference from a RR spluttering factory tune due to more boost to a tidied up remap is like night and day.

sholm23 Apprentice

sholm23

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeh i've had a few people say a tune is worth every cent.

So now i just have to figure out how to get around to doing that... I don't need anything fancy. Just something to handle (in the future) GTR injectors, splitfires, 040 fuel pump and a hks2530 (or similar) turbo on a RB20 would also need to handle a Z32 afm or something. Max 300kw or so if that... 200kw for now.

I've heard EFI Performance is the place to go, and most people say NIStune... I think there priced at $800 or so installed and tuned on a dyno. Is this reasonable? Whats my best option for the money? I really want to keep it under $1000 including tuning but i don't know whats out there.

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted (edited)

$800 installed and tuned on a dyno is reasonable, I've seen it cheaper but that is probably a generic price to cover their bases if the user has a lot of mods. Definitely go the nistune, it will handle all the mods you mentioned with ease.

Edited by Rolls
sholm23 Apprentice

sholm23

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

UPDATE: PROBLEM (maybe) SOLVED.

I installed the Bosch 040 fuel pump. I didn't check voltages as i ran out of day light but i was going to finish it on the weekend.. I went to check it worked but my battery was dead. Today i got out the jumper leads and checked if pump was priming-it was- so i turned it on. I took it for a spin around the block to get the battery up to full power and WOW! car runs fine! full throttle is full throttle and there's significant power gain, +50kw or more. The old pump had a little filter bag thing on the bottom and it looked a little clogged. Ran it under the tap and it wasn't great. I'm guessing that was half the problem....

So, If the car was running rich at anything under like 4000rpm and then full power was at 3/4 throttle with full throttle sorta dieing, is that lean? i doesn't sound like it... if the car knew it wasn't getting enough fuel would it run R&R and limit power to avoid running lean? I'm really hoping it wasn't leaning out at full throttle, it wasn't driven like that for long and there was no unnatural bangs or noises.... hmmm.

I'm yet to change the fuel filter and that may be clogged too, i'm sure it will be a bit. Then i'll see if i can wind up the boost without hitting R&R! YEEHAAAA my car works! Thanks so much for the help thus far!

While i'm here, the oil thread is rather large and full of contradictions... what decent oil would i use for a RB20 in street low power conditions? will pay $50-$80 if its good stuff.

Edited by sholm23
Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted
While i'm here, the oil thread is rather large and full of contradictions... what decent oil would i use for a RB20 in street low power conditions? will pay $50-$80 if its good stuff.

its a complicated topic, there is no simple answer, read the entire thread and you might get a better idea though.

sholm23 Apprentice

sholm23

Posted
  • Author
Posted
its a complicated topic, there is no simple answer, read the entire thread and you might get a better idea though.

Yeh it is a complicated subject but i was hoping there was a particular oil that "works" in a stock RB20... I have no idea about oil temps and the in's and out's of oil tech. I'll read more of it... I'm not going to read the whole 84 pages though especially when 3/4's of it is shit talk.

yeh i think the Old pump must of been shagged... if when i up the voltages and replace the filter it all still works good it will be problem solved. Such a relief!

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted (edited)
its just a personal preference. i use and always have used Penrite HPR 10

there are loads of better oils for similar prices, if you get motul 8100 or something like that you cant go wrong, its a group 4 oil and all the other group 4 and 5 ones are almost $100 or over.

End of the day $20 generic 25w-50 will do fine, you wont notice the difference until you strip the motor down 50,000kms later.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...