Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well time has come to persue a different direction, so my prized GTR is going up for sale. Well modified but not over the top, very clean and presentable, excellent interior condition, always serviced regularly, never see the track.

Vehicle was in storage for approximately 5 years before i purchased it last year. Previous to being put into storage it had a full engine rebuild by Rhemac here in Adelaide using both after market and genuine Nissan parts. Gearbox has also been rebuilt but details of this i am unsure of, thrust bearing is a little noisey but changes gears fine. Coilovers have a slight knock in the rear but still work quite well.

This car has had a long history in Adelaide, previously belonging to a member of IBLIS car club, and being one of the first modified GTR's in Adelaide. Vehicle was purchased from a HKS Dealer mechanic originally, so there are a few mysteries with it.

Car has made 358awkw at Autosalon in adelaide on Graham West's Dyno at 1.5bar

Modifications as listed below, probably missed a few but listed most of what i could think of.

Apexi Power FC Pro (very rare)

HKS CAMP and Panasonic display screen

K&N Extreme top filters,

HKS KANSAI 80A/F Meter (Z32),

HKS GT2530 Turbine, HKS GT Manifold,

NISMO Turbo Pipe, NISMO Front Pipe,

Apexi Dual N1 exhaust,

HKS 1.2mm Metal Head Gasket,

HKS Engine Gasket Kit,

HKS Step 2 Camshaft (in264/out264),

HKS Cam Pulley Adjusters,

TOMEI Valve Springs,

NISMO N1 Pistons (0.5 larger),

NISMO FUEL PUMP,

Siemens Deka 750cc injectors,

CUSCO Oil Catch Can,

HKS EVC III Boost Controller,

HKS Oil Cooler kit with new Earls core

HKS Remote Oil Filter Kit,

HKS Intercooler

HKS Intercooler Piping,

YOSHIO FACTORY 3 Core Radiator,

Greddy radiator deflector

NISMO Thermostat,

NISMO Twin Plate Clutch,

NISMO Pivot Stud,

HKS Kansai Attessa Conroller,

OHLINS Racing Suspension,

NISMO Circuit Link & Bushes,

NISMO Engine Mounts,

HKS Kansai Alloy Suspension Links,

Work Emotion XD-9's 18x10 +15,

Yokahama S Drive 265/35/18,

NISMO 320 Speedo Meter (white),

NISMO Center Meter (white),

HKS Electronic Torque Controller,

HKS Drag Controller,

APEX Boost Meter,

APEX Exhaust Temp Meter (missing sender)

TRUST Pillar Mount,

APEX ECV (not fitted but will include)

CUSCO Strut brace,

JUN style front lip

98 GTR Xenon Headlights,

N1 Intercooler Duct,

N1 Bonnet Lip,

GANADOR Electric Mirrors,

NISMO GT500 Urathane gear knob

MOMO wheel,

NISMO Rad cap,

CUSCO Master Brake Stopper,

CUSCO Steering Shaft Extension,

HKS Type 0 T/Timer

ALPINE CDE-114BTi head unit (only just fitted this week)

ALPINE 2 way Splits (Front/Rear)

BLITZ Blow Off Valves (Removed),

NISMO Circuit Link Castor Rods......

PM or message/phone 0413697162

post-53780-1284692216_thumb.jpg

post-53780-1284692247_thumb.jpg

post-53780-1284692286_thumb.jpg

post-53780-1284692328_thumb.jpg

post-53780-1284692357_thumb.jpg

post-53780-1284692407_thumb.jpg

post-53780-1284692489_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337157-1995-r33-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...