Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This shoudn't really effect anything as it is just settings of under what conditions to disengage the aircon clutch. In this case when TPS is above 90%.

post-35676-1285332467_thumb.jpg

I still need to take it for a drive tomorrow to make sure the aircon is working, as idling in the garage I couldn't really tell if it was cold and my aircon aint that cold anymore so it's hard to tell. But ECU wise it seems to be setup correctly.

Edited by PM-R33

You should be able to hear the clutch engaging and disengaging.

For now, until I can set my ECU settings exactly the same as yours, I have removed the solenoid for the A/C pump as well as turning both the AUX3 and DI4 OFF.

Will give this a shot tomorrow, hopefully setting mine the same as yours solves it for me too.

Thanks

If you get a second person to press the A/C button for you, then you should hear it with your head in the engine bay lol....otherwise it's still pretty audible for me in the cabin, but my car wouldn't be nearly as loud as yours.

  • 1 month later...

Just thought I would update this since it has been a while and maybe you have sorted your issue out :)

My clutch on the aircon compressor aint engaging no matter what I do with the Vipec settings. I can hear the relay click when the aircon is turned on and the Vipec displays it to be working, but it simply won't engage.

I had the gas level tested and there is gas in the system so it aint the low pressure switch.

So possibly my problem is actually a seized clutch on the compressor? I don't know that much about aircons.

I'm trying to find out whether I can manually give the compressor 12V to see whether the clutch engages. Not sure exactly what wire to do that to though...

Edited by PM-R33

I haven't fixed my issue unfortunately, gave up when the fking thing just "broke" itself for no reason....like when I got it working, power cycled the ignition, still working....then f**ked again the next morning.

Just ripped the blue relay solenoid thingy out so it just doesn't engage at all....I'll have at it again next time it's gonna rain down here, coz I realised why I loved A/C the other day....drove in some heavy rain and fogged up BAD.

Well the plot thickens!

It is something to do with the Vipec in my case afterall.

I kept playing around with the electrics that control the aircon and got it to work.

First of all I checked all the fuses and put different relays in, nothing changed as they are all in perfect working condition. So I got the multimeter out and the test light and started working my way back from the compressor. I discovered that on the low pressure switch to the right of the radiator, if I gave one of the pins an earth BIGNO compressor kicked in and cold air. If I disconnected the relay that controls the aircon and tried this again, nothing happened. Therefore the relay is working correctly and the compressor is working correctly, but for some reason the Vipec isn't switching on that relay.

Would my assumption be correct? The strange thing is, when I turn my aircon on, I can hear a click under the bonnet, but I don't think it is coming from the same relay, sounds like it is coming from somewhere else.

Does any one have a bloody aircon wiring diagram?

Maybe I will just call Ray and ask if he has had any issues with aircons with the V44 on a RB25.

Edited by PM-R33

Give Ray a call imo...

Otherwise, at least in my case, I'm 99% certain it's to do with the ECU itself or the settings within the tune. Going back to my original troubleshooting, you can see that by changing NOTHING except for the order I was doing things in, it would differ the outcome. Also once it was working, it "broke" again after an extended period of the ignition being off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...