Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I jus got a Alpine v12 amp and 12 inch sub. Now i have a dilema. What do you guys would be the best set up for a R33. Like i want to know what would give out punchy bass; a fully sealed and boxed sub box or the standard type sub box (where you can see the sub). Space is not a issue for me cos there is nothing ever in my boot anyways. I am hearing conflicting views on what is the better type sub enclosure. I know with home theathre systems almost all are fully enclosed now days. Anyways i thought id put this question forward b4 i chose one next week. Your opinions will be much appreciated. Thanks guys.

The best type of enclosure is the one that suits the type of sub you bought. If it's an alpine 12"? they come with an installation sheet that recommends what type of enclosure suits it.

Post the exact model and someone should be able to advise you what will work best.

Hey guys, thanks for your replies so far. Well the sub is a Alpine type S sub (12 inch and the amp is a Alpine V power amp and has a RMS of 350 Watts. So its not 2 bad. I like punchy bass and i usually listen to R&b and Hip hop and a bit of house music. So what you guys reckon?

When mentioned "fully enclosed" and "semi enclosed" be was reffering to:

Fully enclosed: Front and rear chambers (unable to see sub at all, just looks like one massive box with holes, useally twice the volume of a standard sealed unit)

Semi enclosed: Only has one sealed chamber, able to see either the front of the sub (most common), or the rear (sub fires into the sealed box)

If you have a great designer, and someone that is capable of building a strong box to exact specification, i would choose the band-pass design (fully enclosed). When designed and built properly, these enclosures produce the deepest, loudest and cleanest bass.

Design and build quality is vital.

hey guys,

Thanks for all ya replies so far. I think im leaning towards a fully enclosed sub box. My mate did his one and it sounds pretty good so i will get him to make me a box. he has some kinda fibre fill to insulate it as well. I love my clean bass rather than the "oomf oomf look at me" kinda bullshit. Anyways i also checked out the Alpine website and they got some info on it:

ALPINE Type-S SWS-1241/D 12" Rec Volume for sealed box 35 litres @ 49Hz

also adds:

Sealed enclosure volume includes heavy layers of dacron or similar fibre 'fill' and allows for displcement of the woofer. This is internal volume of box to build for effective in-car performance (Qtc 0.58 - 0.82). Sealed box volumes can also be varied.

You'll definately need an enclosure for that sub. The big question is sealed or ported? I am leaning towards a 'low frequency tuned' ported enclosure due to your power levels and music types. How much boot space can you spare champ?

I would probably tune the enclosure to 32hz but the enlcosure will be a little large (like around 1.5cf).

Hey FHrx. thats the question i wanna know as well hehe sealed or ported. I was thinking of going sealed but u may have made me change my mind. i can spare the whole boot since i never put anything in there anyway hehe.

Hey guys, Finally got my sub and amp put it. It sounds exaclty how i wanted it to. went with the fully enclosed box in the end. thanks for all your comments and advice. If you wanna see pics, they are in the post below.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=34157

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...