Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello ppl im just new to this forum....but i ask looking for some advice

i am currently in the process of buying a r33 gts-t 1993 (it stock to the bone) for around 13k to 14k....

and i was wondering if this is a reasonable price ?

and what should i look for wen buying the car ?

engine wise body wise ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33741-need-help-buying-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

that is a good deal; i pay 17k for mine with bodykit and a few mods and 87k on the clock,

Be sure 2 check for rust in the normal places ( i found that u should always check in the boot on the sides where the water gets drain)

take the car for a test drive and also get the owner 2 have a compersion test done on the car (take it 2 any perforance workshop)

Check out the paint all over inside and outside.

Open the doors and check for different paint marks, odd bends etc.

Open the boot and pull up the carpet, look at the paint and any scratches or odd bends, also check out the boot lid hinges for change of paint.

Also look for any paint over spray.

The above will let you know that the car has had some work done to it, either by change of paint or it's been in a crash and been re-sprayed.

You can take a tape measure and measure both sides between the wheels and if they are differant then the car has been in a crash and fixed up.

Check onder the wheels looking for oil leaks etc, look at the breaks to see if they are scored if they are they will need to be replaced at some point down the track, same with any oil leaks as well.

Also check at the back and look under the car, where the diff is, chack for oil spray or leaks if there's a spray then the seals will need to be fixed, if it's leacking oil either the seal is gone or something worse.

The oil spray is a comman prob thou.

The front right hand side wheel (may be the left), can get an oil spray same as above the seal is on the way out.

Another comman prob.

Test drive it, and if you can or want to, change between 4th and 5th gears, if this cruches or doesn't slide in properly or well then it means you have a problem with the gearbox and it will need to be fixed up at some point.

This is another comman problem as well.

There's all the other things as well like driving smoothly, driving straight (drive on straight road, let go of the steering wheel and see where the car goes)

You can get side to side by the air in the front tires being different so maybe a tire guage would be good to have around to check that.

TinTin, you can get RACV to do full check for you as well, they'll detail anything wrong with it, as well as do all security checks for you. Not sure how much it costs though...

If you're buying from a dealer, don't just settle for the stat warranty, spend the extra $2K (if you can) to have the car under warranty for an extra 2 years.

And as Mike said, excellent price! I paid $26k all up with extra 2yr warranty & only 32,000kms on it.

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...