Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all just installed JJR adjustable camber arms front and rear and i am getting alot of noise from the front arms.

Now is it normal for this until they are 'worn in' or is there a big problem??

Any help will be greatly appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338122-camber-arm-noise/
Share on other sites

That sounds about right. The bushes in the JJR arms are solid as f**k compared to stock and all the little humps and bumps the stock bushes would normally absorb sounds like knocking in the suspension with the more solid JJR arms. What other suspension mods have you done to the rear?

I bought some used Noltec adjustable front upper arms, and exactly the same thing happened to me.

So I thought, this can't be right and went out and bought some nice new japanese Silkroad adjustable upper arms. It minimised the occurance of the noise probably by about 50% but still makes the knocking sound over large bumps.

How low is your car?

I had the car raised with the adjustable arms in and had no issues with any knocking noises what-so-ever. When lowered the arm doesn't 'seem' to be hitting the wheel well but it sure looks close.

Edited by -Jimmy-
That sounds about right. The bushes in the JJR arms are solid as f**k compared to stock and all the little humps and bumps the stock bushes would normally absorb sounds like knocking in the suspension with the more solid JJR arms. What other suspension mods have you done to the rear?

The rears arnt making any noise just the fronts, but suspension mods on the car are:

Cusco Zero2 coilovers

Nismo sway bars

and now the JJR camber arms front and rear

I bought some used Noltec adjustable front upper arms, and exactly the same thing happened to me.

So I thought, this can't be right and went out and bought some nice new japanese Silkroad adjustable upper arms. It minimised the occurance of the noise probably by about 50% but still makes the knocking sound over large bumps.

How low is your car?

I had the car raised with the adjustable arms in and had no issues with any knocking noises what-so-ever. When lowered the arm doesn't 'seem' to be hitting the wheel well but it sure looks close.

Car isnt that low, well above legal height

There is no sign of the arms hitting the wheel well

pic of car height

IMG_0238.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...