Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Going to get some braided lines made up as a few of mine are corroded and leaking..

Having removed the turbos last night i have a question in regards to the lengths. The water (return i think?) from the split on the block for the rear turbo does a loop before the banjo joint on the turbo and the oil supply for the front turbo does the same.

I assume this is so the pipes are equal lengths due to the different locations the splits are on the block. So on to my question..

Should i get the braided lines made up to the exact same lengths as the standard piping (including the loops) or can i get them made up shorter - not sure if this will effect supply/return to the turbos and possibly cause premature wear?

Anyone who could shed some light would be helpful :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338825-rb26-braided-turbo-lines/
Share on other sites

Going to get some braided lines made up as a few of mine are corroded and leaking..

Having removed the turbos last night i have a question in regards to the lengths. The water (return i think?) from the split on the block for the rear turbo does a loop before the banjo joint on the turbo and the oil supply for the front turbo does the same.

I assume this is so the pipes are equal lengths due to the different locations the splits are on the block. So on to my question..

Should i get the braided lines made up to the exact same lengths as the standard piping (including the loops) or can i get them made up shorter - not sure if this will effect supply/return to the turbos and possibly cause premature wear?

Anyone who could shed some light would be helpful :)

Hey,

I think those loops are to allow movement as the manifolds expand/contract (the pipes are quite stiff).

I replaced mine with braided lines (no looping) when I went to a big single; no problems thus far.

Cheers,

Saliya

I'd urge you to use stock replacment steel lines, not braided. Especially if it's a street car. The braided hose will perish relativly quickly witht he constant heat cycling.

But hey, braided hoses look pretty I guess...

J.

well...... oil cooler lines dont run near the exhaust manifold, turbo lines do

just use that orange stuff with the fibreglass inside it, works wonders for high temp sheilding

they come in different sizes to suit braided turbo lines, breather hosing, wiring looms etc

ive used that stuff on breather hoses that are actually touching exhaust piping, its been about a year and its no where close to burning through

pic:

13_eng.jpg

edit: sorry i just realised your still running your twin setup and i also urge you to run the standard metal lines for more reasons than 1

just make sure you use fresh copper washers, the lines have no kinks or have ever been bent

what i wrote above applys to topmounts but i guess you could put some sheilding on the steel lines too? haha

Edited by snozzle
Oil cooler kits all use braided lines, never thought a braided hose would perish any quicker?

I am more wanting to do this for ease of installation - obviously looks aren't important as you can't see down there once the piping is on!

As was said above, oil cooler lines are not exposed to the same heat/thermal cycling as lines in/on/around exhaust manifolds, dump pipes, exhaust housings etc.

How often do are you planning to remove/install the turbo's???

Measuring and making the hoses will take you hours to do properly... Not to mention the cost.

Also, that orange sheithing is designed as a flame barrier... it's designed to stop a direct flame from penitrating it for a pre-determined amount of time. It dose work to insulate against some heat though.

Cheers

Justin

just use that orange stuff with the fibreglass inside it, works wonders for high temp sheilding

they come in different sizes to suit braided turbo lines, breather hosing, wiring looms etc

ive used that stuff on breather hoses that are actually touching exhaust piping, its been about a year and its no where close to burning through

I used the orange stuff to shield a teflon braided oil feed that ran very close to the exhaust manifold (<5mm clearance) and on the turbo drain covering blue rubber hose. After less than 1000k's I've pulled it all apart and the shielding on the drain looks fine however the hose underneath is charred while the orange stuff has dried out and crumbled on the oil feed with the teflon line also blackened. Don't assume this stuff does anything! Hardline and a good air gap are the way to go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...