Jump to content
SAU Community

Difference between GTR and GTS-T...?

Zushi
 Share

Recommended Posts

Zushi Contributor

Zushi

Posted
Posted

I'm trying to figure out the differences between the R32 GTR and GTS-T in regards to the front axle set-up. I have the FSM for the R32 GTR and posted the picture of its front axle here Is the R32 GTS-T's set-up anyting like this. Of course it wouldn't be 4wd but I was thinking that maybe the upper links are the same...etc. Please give me some input. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33888-difference-between-gtr-and-gts-t/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted

well my car is having the whole front end suspension re-built pretty much as i'm changing everything I can at the moment to improve handling. That diagrams looks *very* similar to the GTS-T. One thing that definately does seem diff is the cross-member.

There will be other small differences but the basic setup should be the same.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi deorbit, the GTST has more caster than the GTR as it is limited due to the four wheel drive requirements. The upper suspension mounting points are in exactly the same positions on the chassis. So the only way Nissan could get the caster difference needed was to have different lower control arm inner mounting points between 2wd and 4wd. Hence the sub frame is different. The shocks, springs and stabiliser bars are the same physicaly, obviously the rates are different though.

If there is something that I have missed that you would like to know, please just ask.

RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted

thanks for the info man.

Also i'm gettin adj. upper control arm bushes put in place to adj. camber. Also getting adj. castor rod buses as well. I was asking about replacing the upper control arms and castor rods to improve handing but the place where the car is at just said to get the bushes as its not worth getting the whole hog. This correct?

Is the chassis (apart from the flared guard) of a GTS-T and GTR identical. i.e could the running gear of a R be transplanted into a T without major mods?

Hi deorbit, the GTST has more caster than the GTR as it is limited due to the four wheel drive requirements.  The upper suspension mounting points are in exactly the same positions on the chassis.  So the only way Nissan could get the caster difference needed was to have different lower control arm inner mounting points between 2wd and 4wd.  Hence the sub frame is different.  The shocks, springs and stabiliser bars are the same physicaly, obviously the rates are different though.

If there is something that I have missed that you would like to know, please just ask.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

That would be very interesting to know deorbit.

If there is the possibility it being a simple bolt up of the GTS4/GTR front running gear to be transplanted in to a T I may look in to the $$ involved and see if its worth while doing for the new motor.

I need a new gearbox anyhow.

Clint32 Mentor

Clint32

Posted
Posted
I don't know about the others but I may look at bolting up a GTS4 or GTR FWD depending on difference (gearbox strength at ~300rwkw).

the front crossmember would need to be changed and it mounts up differently to the gts, also you would need to belt a large dent in the floor pan for the transfew case to clear. it would be possible but fot the cost of 89 gtrs, its not worth the hassle. Get the chassis sorted and use the better handling and lighter weight to your advanage, just need good tyres

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Joel, RB25DET, as in R33 GTST, gearbox is the same internally as an R32/33 GTR gearbox. I tend to think they would handle more power, as the traction would not be as good (4wd versus 2wd) plus the weight is much less (R32 GTST versus R33 GTR).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...