Jump to content
SAU Community

Arp Head Stud Torque Setting Rb30

GTR37

By GTR37,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR37 Apprentice

GTR37

Posted
Posted

Hi I couldn't find a thread with a clear answer with the torque setting for Arp head studs in a rb30, only info on the 25 or 26. Just wondering if the settings are the same, from what I can gather its 80nm if you use the molly lube and 100nm if you use engine oil. Is this correct?

more info if needed,

I have the 11mm studs. I got the engine dis assembled but it has been using the studs previously.

Any help appreciated, thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339643-arp-head-stud-torque-setting-rb30/
Share on other sites
Supa Steve Enthusiast

Supa Steve

Posted
Posted
Hi I couldn't find a thread with a clear answer with the torque setting for Arp head studs in a rb30, only info on the 25 or 26. Just wondering if the settings are the same, from what I can gather its 80nm if you use the molly lube and 100nm if you use engine oil. Is this correct?

more info if needed,

I have the 11mm studs. I got the engine dis assembled but it has been using the studs previously.

Any help appreciated, thank you.

72ft/lbs with moly

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

My little instruction sheet says 87ft/lbs, tightened up a third of the torque at a time.

I'm not sure if they used lube or engine oil though.

They are coming out, as the head has the come off because the builders were dicks.

Supa Steve Enthusiast

Supa Steve

Posted
Posted (edited)
My little instruction sheet says 87ft/lbs, tightened up a third of the torque at a time.

I'm not sure if they used lube or engine oil though.

They are coming out, as the head has the come off because the builders were dicks.

always better results using moly lube guys, here is the correct fastner torque setting list.

first column is ARP, second is ARP2000 and third is L-19

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml

rod bolts are 45ft/lbs or 6thou stretch.

bolts must be cycled a few times before final torque for best results.

Edited by Supa Steve
GTR37 Apprentice

GTR37

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys. The question I probably should of asked is will it matter if I get the torque setting wrong slightly. Every where I look has a different answer so I would be guessing not, as long as I was close. The std final stage tension is 88nm, now I know that is using engine oil and the average torque I found for arp with moly lube is 72 - 80. Id hate to get it wrong and have to pull the engine apart again or have it fail.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

Check out the latest ARP catalog under the torque setting page and see what it is for an 11mm stud. Ive always done them to 71ft/lbs with moly lube. They could have changed it...

Just looked and it is 72ft/lbs now. Well there you go.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...