Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's a quick guide, will give 100% trouble free perfect installation if the steps are followed to the letter! Let's go!

Step (1)

- Your parker bulbs have arrived, they may look like any of the following T10 types (depending on what you have ordered) they all share the same feature though, they have a universal T10 base, as found in >95% of cars on the road.

Step1.jpg

Step (2)

- Locate you parker bulb socket, rotate the socket so that the socket and bulb assembly are easily accessed.

Step2.jpg

Step (3)

- Remove the bulb, it simply pulls out

Step3.jpg

Step (4)

- Squeeze the metal tags a bit closer together, this will give a nice tight fit to the LED bulbs when they're installed

Step4.jpg

Step (5)

- Now the bulbs are removed, turn the parker lights ON

Step (6)

- Splay the legs of the LED bulbs at a 45 degree angle, all the bulbs on the right have had this done, compared to the bulbs on the left. This will almost guarantee the metal

legs will have perfect contact with the copper tags in the parker bulb socket.

Step6.jpg

Step (7)

- Simply place the bulb into the socket, if you have got it the correct way around it will illuminate straight away, if not, simply take the bulb out and place back in turned 180 degrees, it will now light up! If nothing lights up, check that you legs are still angled and that they are making contact in the base, no contact = no power to the bulb.

Step7.jpg

Step (8)

- Now everything is working, put the sockets back in their original location, done!

  • 11 months later...

Led's are much brighter than normal halogen type bulbs. The dispursement of light is much more direct, (straight). Using it as a indicator light will work because it is not used to disperse the light on to the road but rather draw attention to the blinking.

In short yes it will work mate.

  • 6 months later...

Yes the can be used as indicators......everyone pay close attention to STEP 6, a lot of people think they know better and try to install without bending the legs, this is essential!!!!!!! Otherwise the leg will sit in the recess and do f#@k all

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
×
×
  • Create New...