Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

]mines actually on +5 on idle...(auto) and jumps to 20 when i rev out its a mechanical cobalt series boost/vac gauge i just tap'd it into the line at the front of the manifold like described in a step by step posted on here i know its wrong coz my stock gauge sits in the - and jumps accordingly.. post-84025-0-70170300-1306822304_thumb.jpg

Edited by nismo07

any idea's?

Hmm, not sure. I've always tapped boost gauges directly off the plenum itself. Never really tried to tee it off an existing line. It definitely should be reading somewhere in the negatives on idle though.

Edited by GT32

Hmm, not sure. I've always tapped boost gauges directly off the plenum itself. Never really tried to tee it off an existing line. It definitely should be reading somewhere in the negatives on idle though.

Was thinking maby trying it at the rear where the stock line goes in from the little box right near the brake booster? if i was to pull that off and run the gauge straight in be fine right? doesnt matter if i disconnect the stock gauge at all does it??

Hmm, you could be right. Possibly a faulty gauge. I used to have an Omori boost gauge on my old 32. The gauge looked ancient! Was a mechanical type and I remember it was always 1-2psi out. When I had the car dynoed a few years ago, their dyno chart always displayed 1-2psi higher than what the boost gauge in the cabin displayed. It was probably due to wear and tear though. Is the gauge you're using brand new or second hand?

Hmm, you could be right. Possibly a faulty gauge. I used to have an Omori boost gauge on my old 32. The gauge looked ancient! Was a mechanical type and I remember it was always 1-2psi out. When I had the car dynoed a few years ago, their dyno chart always displayed 1-2psi higher than what the boost gauge in the cabin displayed. It was probably due to wear and tear though. Is the gauge you're using brand new or second hand?

Brand new from autobarn was a cobalt autometer so thought it was quality rofl...

Hmm, could be faulty. Bring it back and exchange it for another one to see if it still does the same thing. I'm not even gonna bother using a conventional boost gauge this time around in my new car. Once my AVC-R goes in then I'll just rely on that from now on to show me how much boost I'm running. :).

also shouldnt the gauge reset to 0 when the ignition is off? it sits on 15+ ??

Sorry, didn't see this. Yes it should revert back to +-0 when the ignition is off. If it sits on +15 then there definitely is a problem lol.

definitely was the gauge lol... funny on the phone to them were trying to blame installation but once they actually looked at it they said "yea its stuffed"... lol dont know how it could be my fault when the needle resets to +15psi and wont go below 5+ anyways yea overnight delivery :)

kool on another note what should the boost be reading on idle?? -7 like the stock gauge?

Different units, the stock gauge reads in mmHg x100 for both positive & negative pressure.

Most aftermarket boost gauge will read in inHg for negative & either PSI or Bar for positive pressure.

15 - 20 inHg is the norm for idling pressure with the car stationary, anything lower than 15 inHg & you may have a leak somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...