Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

]mines actually on +5 on idle...(auto) and jumps to 20 when i rev out its a mechanical cobalt series boost/vac gauge i just tap'd it into the line at the front of the manifold like described in a step by step posted on here i know its wrong coz my stock gauge sits in the - and jumps accordingly.. post-84025-0-70170300-1306822304_thumb.jpg

Edited by nismo07

any idea's?

Hmm, not sure. I've always tapped boost gauges directly off the plenum itself. Never really tried to tee it off an existing line. It definitely should be reading somewhere in the negatives on idle though.

Edited by GT32

Hmm, not sure. I've always tapped boost gauges directly off the plenum itself. Never really tried to tee it off an existing line. It definitely should be reading somewhere in the negatives on idle though.

Was thinking maby trying it at the rear where the stock line goes in from the little box right near the brake booster? if i was to pull that off and run the gauge straight in be fine right? doesnt matter if i disconnect the stock gauge at all does it??

Hmm, you could be right. Possibly a faulty gauge. I used to have an Omori boost gauge on my old 32. The gauge looked ancient! Was a mechanical type and I remember it was always 1-2psi out. When I had the car dynoed a few years ago, their dyno chart always displayed 1-2psi higher than what the boost gauge in the cabin displayed. It was probably due to wear and tear though. Is the gauge you're using brand new or second hand?

Hmm, you could be right. Possibly a faulty gauge. I used to have an Omori boost gauge on my old 32. The gauge looked ancient! Was a mechanical type and I remember it was always 1-2psi out. When I had the car dynoed a few years ago, their dyno chart always displayed 1-2psi higher than what the boost gauge in the cabin displayed. It was probably due to wear and tear though. Is the gauge you're using brand new or second hand?

Brand new from autobarn was a cobalt autometer so thought it was quality rofl...

Hmm, could be faulty. Bring it back and exchange it for another one to see if it still does the same thing. I'm not even gonna bother using a conventional boost gauge this time around in my new car. Once my AVC-R goes in then I'll just rely on that from now on to show me how much boost I'm running. :).

also shouldnt the gauge reset to 0 when the ignition is off? it sits on 15+ ??

Sorry, didn't see this. Yes it should revert back to +-0 when the ignition is off. If it sits on +15 then there definitely is a problem lol.

definitely was the gauge lol... funny on the phone to them were trying to blame installation but once they actually looked at it they said "yea its stuffed"... lol dont know how it could be my fault when the needle resets to +15psi and wont go below 5+ anyways yea overnight delivery :)

kool on another note what should the boost be reading on idle?? -7 like the stock gauge?

Different units, the stock gauge reads in mmHg x100 for both positive & negative pressure.

Most aftermarket boost gauge will read in inHg for negative & either PSI or Bar for positive pressure.

15 - 20 inHg is the norm for idling pressure with the car stationary, anything lower than 15 inHg & you may have a leak somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...