Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If it goes away when you put the clutch in, my money would be on the standard RB25 input shaft bearing noise.

The other common noise is when you have a whining noise that goes away when you go into 4th gear, apparently this is the cluster shaft bearing.

From what I've seen/heard, it's common as muck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340881-rb25det-rattle/#findComment-5502869
Share on other sites

yeah that is the common rattle if it goes away with pushing the clutch in. mine had it. usually caused by having a heavy duty clutch as you have extra stress on the bearing everytime you push the clutch in. when you push the clutch in the bearing presses against the pressure plate to let the clutch plate free from the flywheel, and since there is pressure on the bearing it goes quiet. the rattle when the clutch is out is because the bearing rattles from not having any pressure to hold it still. like having a loose nut or bolt. when you tighten it up it can't vibrate and make a noise.

however if you are having issues with the clutch never fully disengaging then it may be a result of that as well and may be partially related. the creeping in gear can be caused by 1 of 2 things. 1: adjustment. 2: damaged pivot bolt of clutch fork. there is a 3rd possibility but it is generally much less common. that is the clutch fork not holding the bearing properly. unfortunately both 2 and 3 are gearbox out jobs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340881-rb25det-rattle/#findComment-5502976
Share on other sites

i havent had a proper look at the clutch nor driven a 33 with a stock clutch but it definitely feels aftermarket.. it is very heavy but i have to put my foot to the floor to engage/disengage it. Ill have to get it checked out properly but yeah the noise goes away after 5-10 mins or whenever the clutch is in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340881-rb25det-rattle/#findComment-5503711
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
    • I started removing the tank a while back with the intent to give it a proper clean. Got to a bolt that I couldn't undo completely due to a diff being in the way, so just said f**k it and siphoned the gluggy old fuel out and called it a day. Looking it the tank it looks less corroded than the one in the pics for that billet hanger from Frenchy's anyway. Isn't it the fuel filters job to worry about this stuff? I scraped off most the crusty shit of the hanger but will give it another go before reinstall coz maybe the fuel and return pipes are also full of gunk  
×
×
  • Create New...