Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone

Model: EK1 1999

Transmission: Manual LSD

kms: 15x,xxx on chasis and 8x,xxx in engine

engine: B16A2

Condition: Excellent condition

Reason: looking for something different and just trying to sell (Not in rush) still some parts going in if I dont sell

Price: 12.5K ONO

Contact: PM me or 0400-826-316

other comments: Rego number EK-833 will come with sale, Rego till next year 2011, Lot of time and work put in the car

and will do more work if I dont sell it - also some parts will come with sale in right price - NO PART OUT so do not ask

Not in REVS no accident history. I bought the car with engine swap already but I added 80% of the mods. Also car is with

A/C and Powersteering.

Mods:

B16A2 engine swap (imported engine according from the owner)

LSD gearbox from an ITR

Short shifter

Cusco catch can

whale penis CAI with Apexi filter and with custom Box

Cusco strut bar

Xbar

Blow lower control arms

Speco gauges - Oil press, Oil temp and Volt in a three cup holder

Speco gauge - RPM

Ek9 shocks + spring

ek9 grill

ek9 front lip

ek9 skirts

ek9 rear lip

Front and rear bar no mouldings

USDM Foglights

Buddy club full exhaust

Hondata ECU

CR-kai replicas with long lug nuts

SAAS seats -Fixed and super low rails

with Bride head dress

Beaks low tie bar

Buddy club camber kit front and rear

CTR gearknob and surround

Spoon style CBF Wing

List that I have and going to the car

Front and rear swaybars whiteline (thanks for the advise from Khoa and Henry)

Budd Club n1 Coilovers

rear disk brake conversion with master cylinder upgrade

ASR subframe

Mugen Headers and I have spare full megan racing exhaust from america (i am selling but if car sales first I might add it)

Photos:

I will add tonight I need to get some

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340887-nsw-my-ek-hatch/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...