Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Specs:

R32 RB25DE NA Head - $750 (purchase) + $880 (Rebuild/Work)

Stock cams

Inlet 240dur 7.8mm Lift

Exhaust 232dur 7.3mm Lift

Very mild port & polish job mainly concentrating on the bowl area of the exhaust port.

Inlet valves deshrouded

Inlet valve seats have had a 3 angle seat job done.

Exhaust valves have had another type of seat job that is best for the airflow direction.

Head, manifolds & plenum port matched.

Stainless Steel Headgasket with built in O-Ring (Looks like it has 3 layers?!)

Series II VL Commodore RB30E NA Short Motor - $3450

Crack Tested - Crank, Rods & Block.

87mm RB25DET Wiesco forged pistons ~8.5:1CR

RB25DET oil pump <- Thanx Clint32.

Nissan Rod bolts

Nissan Head bolts

King Performance Bearings

Blue printed

RB20DET Flywheel <- Thanx Clint32.

Balanced using the Heinz Balancer to 1 gram

A few extra charges:

Face Flywheel - $50

Fit Head, Drill & Tap Tensioner above waterpump & fit cam belt - $200

Cam Belt - $38.50

Chris Milton Engineering worked on the head, the head had to be sent back which cost me another $80 as they missed a protruding exhaust valve seat on No. 5 combustion chamber. The protruding valve seat would have caused detonation. So yer.. you guessed it.. Not happy.

Darren (Bl4ck32) is also getting his motor built up with virtually the same specs. Maybe this is why we were quoted such a good price on the bottom end.

City Dismantlers with Andrew the wizz who is rebuilding the engine & doing a little bit of research in order to make me happy with the final compression ratio.

He definately knows his stuff & has worked on many performance RB30's in the past, he is easy to talk to and has put up with me and my friggin questions. :)

He sets a fixed price from the beginning and it doesn't change. He uses all of the latest machinery (Heinz Balance to 1 gram) and is very thorough (crack test block/crank/rods).

Well what can I say.... Can't wait. :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34114-the-new-motor-update-12th-march-04/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OHHH YEAH! :wassup:

Also to the list are the support system upgrades (for me) :

HKS 3037s

550cc injectors

AP Engineering Power FC + Hand controller

Bosch fuel pump

Rb25det gearbox + single piece tailshaft

And sum 17" deep dish mofo's to get it to see the ground. :P

sweet, cant wait to see both your beasts up and prowling the streets, where can I book in for a ride?:P:D:D

Good things are worth waiting for, just be careful as fits of laughter and huge shit eating grins when you are driving make you look like you have been up to something:p

Yeah, done some research on bearings. Here's a page on the clevites :

http://engineparts.com/products/trimetal.html

If u read it, it explains about bimetal and trimetal bearings. Then have a look at King bearings page:

http://www.kingbearings.com/advantages.html

Wow I didnt realise rebuilds were this cheap. I always thought they were mega $$$!. I was thinking about getting my SR20 a freshen up sometime...

What is the expected power output? 300rwkw should be crossed relatively easily!!

The $3500 is just for the motor. It doesn't include installation / tuning. Joel and myself are doin the hard work of removing / installing the new motors.

I'd hope the 300rwkw would be crossed, but over 350 u need to go forged rods etc...$$ Its hard when to say stop when spending on parts but it snowballs if u cant put a limit on power. Were aiming for reliability as well.

The $3500 is just for the motor. It doesn't include installation / tuning. Joel and myself are doin the hard work of removing / installing the new motors.

I'd hope the 300rwkw would be crossed, but over 350 u need to go forged rods etc...$$ Its hard when to say stop when spending on parts but it snowballs if u cant put a limit on power. Were aiming for reliability as well.

$3500 is still very cheap, surprised u didnt get a high volume oil pump and large + baffeled sump also. What turbo is going on this system and what power are you looking for?

I cant speak for joel, but if i could have stretched for the extras (they were on the cards believe me) i would have.

I asked Andrew about the oil pump and he said Mark Tilbrook built a motor that was similar and used the std rb30 oil pump.

These are mainly street engines, with maybe the one trip down the 1/4 or out at Mallala.

Turbo is listed above.

A few reasons. 3037 ProS has t3 flange i believe. Bolts on to std. manifold. (trying to keep costs down again :))

A mainfold + ext. wastegated turbo = instant defect.

As Joel said :

Can use the stock manifold etc. + from Greenline by the time I buy external gate custom manifold etc the price works out more than the ProS.. Guess I will find out if that is to be true when I drop the motor in the car. Always hidden costs that you forget about.

My car is in final stages of getting built, hoping to tune tomorrow with garret 3040, custom high mount manifold and 45mm ext race gate and all the other goodies you need to support.

I was advised if i wanted realiable/responsive hp to ditch the stock cast manifold coz its rubbish. I know people will say "I made over 300rwkw with the stock manifold" that not the point, as screw in enough boost and you will make high hp but just how efficient and responsive it comes on is what matters.

Just food for thought.

INANST,

The oil pump we are using which bumps the price up to 4k is a R32 GTR pump. So yer it is a high flow pump ample for the RB30DET single turbo. I was considering the N1 pump however Andrew said if its only a higher pressure pump stick with the std. GTR pump as the higher pressure is not always good for a low reving street motor. It is fine for a motor that spins up to 9k. The GTR pump will supply ample oil even if I do end up baffling the sump and using it for the occasional track day to stick it in third with low rev's out of a corner and power past STEVE! heheh :P

The HKS3037ProS on the stock manifold will be fine, remember its a 3ltr so the engine is going to be much more responsive compared to the RB25DET. The point is we don't have a money tree and have to start drawing the line some where. I doubt having a nice exhaust manifold will make that much difference. Well not 1k worth of a difference. :)

If I did have an extra 1k I would much prefer to get a set of cams to help bring the peak power up to around 7000rpm.

Have you driven a RB20DET then jumped in to a RB25DET, huge difference in bottom end torque/spool speed. Sitting in the passenger seat you don't notice it, drive it and you will walk away glad to get back in your 2.5ltr.

Sure you may be able to pick up a little bit of response with an after market exhaust manifold but not enough to worry me, what would worry me more is if the cops saw a non std. exhaust manifold/gate.

From other peoples experience the stock RB exhaust manifold starts running in to problems up around 320rwkw. Hits a brick wall if you like, you can keep pumping in the boost but she won't make any more power. Even then at that power level a set of nice tyres or better diff is going to make more of a difference than a exhaust manifold. I guess it comes down to the individuals prioritys and what they seee as the best bang for buck.

Picked up the clutch today.

Its an Xtreme Extra Heavy Duty (Just over 1000kg's) Cushioned Ceramic Button Clutch. I think thats what its called. :( Tim's had one in a Supra that was/is making 308rwkw with no reliability problems as it is still in the car today.

What Clutch are you running Matt?

I got that same clutch joel in mine, but i think your are kidding yourself too much saying a well made high mount manifold will only help alittle bit. The stock manifold is just like the other stock parts on the car, exhaust, turbo, intercooler, they are all made on a cost per basis budget. U know the stock cooler, turbo and exhaust system aint the best, so dont think the manifold is anything special either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...