Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I put an Atmospheric Blowoff valve byt Turbo Smart on the car one day just out of boredom.. it came time that I blew the turbo, so I hiflowed it. Since putting the refurbished Turbo on, I noticed that the Compression Surge had increased, and now I'm getting a jittering in the car when I back off accelaration to cruise.

I want to change the Blowoff back to a "plumb back" style BOV. i have a weaker spring to help the valve open, but... My parents being the way they are, had thrown out my Stock BOV and the pipe that goes from the Centre adaptor thingy, to the Filter Piping.

Im trying to find out where I can get this pipe from, stock or aftermarket.. as long as it fits.

any idea's?

P.s im trying to avoid the rediculous prices from Ftree Gully Nissan lol :) << that's what was in my head when I found out my parents through it out.. lets say im the big brown thing lol

Thanks,

Aaron

Edited by AaronNM35
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341291-m35-stagea-plumb-back-piping/
Share on other sites

Jetwreck,

Thanks, for some reason I cant send PM's until i have made more than ten post's...

Im not really in need of all of it.. just really the one pipe from the adaptor to the filter piping..

cheers..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...