Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WRECKING s3 hr31 passage all parts available (hit me up with the parts you need)

-----------------

Manual conversion, rb20 5speed gearbox and gear shifter, clutch(ok condition) manual brake and clutch peddles, master and slave cylinders, manual 2 pice tail shaft, gearbox cross member, (only thing it wont come with is manual ecu but can still be driven with a auto ecu) - $600 neg

-----------------

Hr31 front struts, hr31 discs and breaks, lowered springs (not sure what brand), strut inserts (unsure of condition or brand), all nuts and bolts will be there to bolt up. - $400? NEG

ALSO HAVE FOR SALE: RB30ET COMPLETE TURBO SET UP

RB30eT turbo set up ready to bolt onto YOUR RB30e

it comes with everything needed to start up and drive away smile.gif

standard turbo on low mount manifold.

dump pipe, oil/water lines, all bolts (you will have to use your own manifold stud bolts).

r32 side mounted intercooler and all pipes to connect.

injectors and fuel rail

standard turbo ecu

standard manifold plenum and all pipes

and anything else that is there laying around to go with

Its in great working condition no issues at all :(

can also supply 3"inch zorst to suit a r31 for a little extra

pick up from chermside or can courier interstate at your cost

asking $77777700

may swap for parts of interest pm me

can also get more close up pic's if needed or come take a look for ya self

ALSO HAVE: 3" inch exhaust system from dump pipe to tip come off a hr31 passage (can send pics just ask) $220

AND HAVE SOME>>> RB25DET S2 R33 ENGINE PARTS:

1 x S2 Rb25det ECU $230 (can supply with full complete engine wiring loom) both in great condition

6 x S2 rb25det injectors, fuel rail, plugs & loom $250 great condition

2 x S2 rb25det AFM air flow meter (pink label) $150 each great condition

1 x rb25det stock air intake plenum comes with throttle body $180 great condition

1 x rb20det or rb25det CAS (crank angle sensor) $50 great condition

1 x rb20det/rb25det manual gear shifter $70 good condition

1 x 3" inch universal intercooler piping kit complete (brand new) $270

Package included:

2 x 18" straight pipes

2 x 19" 45 degree pipes

2 x 17" 90 degree pipes

2 x 18" 75 degree pipes

16 x clamps

8 x Couplers (Color - blue)

CAN USE AUST POST OR COURIER MOST ITEMS (AT YOUR COST)

I'M LOCATED IN CHERMSIDE (BRISBANE NORTH SIDE) PICK UP FROM THERE

CHEERS LUKE

post-61812-1287666202_thumb.jpg

post-61812-1287666222_thumb.jpg

post-61812-1287666243_thumb.jpg

post-61812-1287666273_thumb.jpg

post-61812-1287666293_thumb.jpg

post-61812-1287666318_thumb.jpg

post-61812-1287666676_thumb.jpg

post-61812-1287666693_thumb.jpg

post-61812-1287666715_thumb.jpg

Do you have door trims and what condition are they in?

i sure do mate the rear ones are in awesome condition the front drivers side around the door lock is ripped & the passenger side just need some glue as its lost grip...

i'll send you a pm...

i might be keen, but im a bit far away lol.

I'll see if I can find someone to pick it up depending on how much you were after for it.

No promises though.

i might be keen, but im a bit far away lol.

I'll see if I can find someone to pick it up depending on how much you were after for it.

No promises though.

scrap metal yard is giving me $400 with the f**ked engine

so save me the hassle for taking it there you can have it for $300 with the engine?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...